Panasonic’s recently introduced V10 series, the next level up from its well received G10 plasma line (recently reviewed on this site), uses the same NEO PDP panel but adds significant features including three color modes (up from two), user-controlled gray scale setting, 96Hz refresh rate for 24Hz sources and a thinner profile. The set is now available in 50,” and 54″ diagonal screen sizes, with the 58″ and 65″ versions due sometime in August.
Both the TC-P54V10 reviewed here and the 50†model use an attractive one-sheet front anti-reflective glass, that extends from edge to edge covering the bezel to produce a very slick appearance. The V10s sport a silver accent along the display bottom. The TC-P54V10 has a stepped rear panel that is about 1″ deep at the top and 3.3″ in the middle, almost an inch thinner G10’s 4.2″ overall depth.
The V10’s jack pack adds a fourth HDMI input (side mounted) compared to the G10’s three, plus two component video inputs with L/R audio; one S video with L/R; two composite AV inputs (one side-mounted); RS-232 control jack for Crestron Type remote control systems and a side mounted sub-D PC input. There is also an Ethernet port for connection to Panasonic’s Viera Cast Internet functions.
The remote control is similar to the one found with the G10 and easy to use, though it lacks a backlight. The On Screen menu uses a typical layered structure with the more advanced features (described below) in sub-menus. However, there is a Viera Tools button that allows direct access to a number of functions including picture mode (such as THX). The 54″ comes with a fixed non-swivel stand. Like the G10, it has downward firing oval coned speakers that provide adequate volume but not high fidelity sound.
 
Features
As previously noted, the V10 adds a number of performance oriented features the G10 series lacks, including Digital Cinema Color (DCC), which emulates the color gamut of the Digital Cinema Initiative (DCI). While the HDTV standard used on Blu-ray movies and theoretically broadcast HDTV (usually not though, because of a number of variables in the broadcast chain) has a restricted gamut called Rec. 709, Blu-ray discs (and Sony Playstation video games) have the ability to display a wider color gamut via meta-data as part of the HDMI 1.3 standard called xvYCC. Unfortunately, no discs to date have it, but if they ever do, the TC-P54V10 will be able to use the data to map out the colors as the film studio intended. In the meantime, you can choose to have the V10 simulate a wider color palette by engaging the DCC feature. The TC-54V10 features two other color modes: standard and THX. The THX mode closely follows the Rec. 709 HDTV standard (see the Performance section for details).
As with the G10 series, the TC-P54V10 has effective noise reduction for analog (called Video NR) and digital based signals (Block and Mosquito NR). A control for Black level makes darker objects black or near black (choose the “Light” setting to avoid crushing black detail), while C.A.T.S adjusts picture brightness with the level ambient room light (we recommend leaving it in the off position).
Like the G10 models, the V10 can connect via an Ethernet jack to services including Picasa (photo uploads and downloads), YouTube, Amazon Videos and Bloomberg News. Unlike a number of other TV vendors, Panasonic’s VieraCast is upgradeable, meaning new services will be offered as they become available in the future.
Unique to the V10 series (and the single model TC-P54Z1) is 96Hz display. When fed a 24 Hz signal (movie film based content), from a Blu-ray player or (limited) DirecTV HD content, the V10 provides the option of choosing 48 Hz, 60 Hz or 96 Hz display. With 96 Hz, film based content is presented as 4-4, meaning film frame 1 repeats four times, followed by frame 2 repeated four times, followed by frame 3 repeated four times and so forth. Other plasma TVs and LCD flat panels use a less sophisticated system called 3-2 pulldown, which repeats (film based content) frame 1 three times, followed by frame 2 two times, followed by frame 3 three times and so forth. This uneven pace, (necessary to fit 24 frames per second into a 60 Hz display) sometimes produces jerky horizontal pans called “film judder.â€Â
Technologies developed by LCD TV makers can also eliminate film judder, using higher refresh rates of 120 Hz and 240 Hz. Repeating film frames 5 times (120 Hz) or 10 times (240Hz) eliminates judder. However, most 2009 LCD sets also use a system called motion compensation/motion estimation (MC/ME) that makes motion smoother by creating synthesized frames between the actual film frames.
Unfortunately, the MC/ME circuits also create artifacts that make film based content appear as if it was recorded as video rather than transferred from movie film. There is a reduction or elimination of the appearance of film grain and other unwanted visible image changes. Some LCD HDTV makers claim this function can be deactivated while others brands and models don’t offer the choice. For example, the recently reviewed Samsung UN46B8000 continued to make film based content “video like” even though the ME/MC circuit was set to the “off” position. The video “look” has been called by some the “soap opera effect” or SEO.
Various home theater forum contributors opine about the effect, with some liking it and others (including the HD Guru®) not. In our opinion, when displaying a movie (whether at a theater or home) the medium should preserve the film look, including the grain associated with chemical photography. The V10’s system eliminates film judder while maintaining the film look. To date, LCD displays with MC/ME frame insertion don’t.
LCDs need 120 or 240 Hz to reduce motion blur. 60 Hz LCDs display about 300 out of 1080 lines per picture height (PPH) during motion, while 120 Hz LCDs max out at around 600 out of 1080. The V10 reproduces full 1080 PPH motion resolution, confirmed using the FPD test disc.
Performance
With the G10 setting new plasma standards in energy consumption, out of the box color accuracy, white level uniformity and image brightness, the expectation was for similar performance with the equally spec’d TC-P54V10. This was confirmed in our video processing trials with the V10 also acing the standard definition HQV Benchmark tests and the HD Benchmark’s Noise Reduction, Video Resolution and 3:2 tests. (See the G10 review for more details Here)
Taking primary color points measurements in THX and Custom modes (with DCC on and off), the results are as follows, with the Rec. 709 coordinates for red, green and blue in parentheses. THX R= x.634, y.333 (x.64, y.33) G= x.305, y=.613 (x.30, y.60) B= x.153, y.064 (x.15, y.06). These numbers mean the V10 closely reproduces the HDTV standard when set to THX. Custom with DCC “Off” measured R= x.664, y 3.23; G= x.280 y=.644; B= x.151, y.057. With DCC “On” R= x.669 y.321; G= x.257 y.671; B= x.151 y.057
Image brightness was excellent. Maxed out (factory default) “Vivid” mode measured a blazing 87.9 ft. Lamberts. With all the user settings calibrated for maximum accuracy “Custom” mode measured a very bright 47.6 Ft Lambertsâ€â€a level comparable to many calibrated LCD flat panels. The THX mode came in at 33.5 ft lamberts, bright enough for most viewing environments, but not as punchy as when viewing in the brighter “Custom” mode.
Energy consumption was low. Using factory default home “Standard” mode the TC-P54V10 requires just 216.5 watts using the IEC industry standard DVD test material. Calibrated in “Custom” mode consumption came in at 240 watts, which is not at all shabby for a 54″ display.
Gray scale was measured in THX mode with the “Color Temperature” user setting at “Warm 2″ (there is no other adjustment for THX mode). Measurements recorded were 6626K (20 IRE) and 6594K at 80 IRE. Custom mode allows gray scale to be-user calibrated. Again, using Warm 2 color temp mode, post calibration at the 20IRE level recorded a color temperature of 6448K and 6424K at 80IRE. Skin tones appear quite natural.
The Gamma user control, set to its numerically highest level (“Normal”), measured 2.25 average. There is no service level or user gamma tracking adjustment available, an omission we would like to see remedied in a display of this caliber. Blu-ray discs are mastered for a 2.5 gamma display.
The TC-P54V10 really excelled overall in visual contrast, consistently creating more “pop” to the image than our reference Pioneer Elite Pro-141FD monitor. The Pioneer Elite is still the champ when it comes to black level, with deep inky blacks, which is most noticeable in a completely dark room. However, the Pioneer sometimes obscured dark details that the Panasonic presents. For example, the clouds of smoke clearly visible on the Panasonic during the Macy’s 4th of July Fireworks broadcast in high definition on NBC, sometimes melted into black on the 141FD.
Most surprising was the significantly lower black level of the V10 when compared side-by-side with the TC-P50G10 (see photo). Even though the two have the same contrast ratio specifications, the V10’s blacks were far deeper than the G10′s. Too low to measure with our meter, we guesstimate the blacks are about one half as dark on the V10, which is a significant and worthwhile improvement.
Black Level Comparison-TC-P54V10 Top TC-P50G10 Bottom
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Conclusion
The TC-P54V10 is Panasonic’s best plasma HDTV to date. Dealers and videophiles have been lamenting Pioneer’s withdrawal of the revered KURO plasma HDTVs from the market. Panasonic’s V10 provides comparable or better performance in nearly every criteria of image quality, at less than half the retail price (50″ vs. 50″) and can be regarded as a worthy successor.
Readers have been asking whether they should purchase a G10 or V10. Both are superb displays and either (under reasonable room ambient lighting conditions) will provide overall a more accurate image with far wider viewing angles than any LCD tested to date.
The TC-PV10 betters the G10 in black level, “pop”, judder free film reproduction and user accessible gray scale adjustment (though one needs an expensive meter to obtain accurate results). HD Guru believes the relatively small cost differential ($400 retail/~$300 street) is well worthwhile, especially for viewers interested in obtaining the most accurate home movie experience. The TC-P54V10 retails for $2599.95.
The TC-P54V10 so significantly raised the performance bar, HD Guru feels it necessary to widen the rating scale from this review forward from four to five hearts.
The HD Guru awards the Panasonic TC-P54V10 ♥♥♥♥♥ its highest rating.
-HDGuru® with Michael Fremer
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Will you be reviewing the 2011 Panasonic VT 30 soon? I’m wondering if it is better that the V10.
Thank you for a reply.
claude whitney
@Michael
1. On the TV itself, hold down the “Vol -†button (on the right hand side of TV)
2. While holding the volume button down, press “0†on the TV remote three times. Wait. The service menu will load.
3. Now press the “2″ button on the remote. This will pull up a window with the word “SRV-TOOLâ€Â.
4. Press the “OK†button on the remote. A light blue grid will appear.
5. On the Grid, move the cursor down (using the remote down arrows) to the row labeled “PTCTâ€Â
6. Move cursor to the right. It should be an empty box on the grid.
7. Hold MUTE for 3 seconds. The amount of time the display has been on will be next to the word “TIME†this is in hours and minutes.
but will 3D tv take over the world now is the question…
CNET’s LATEST FINDING ON PANASONIC BLACK LEVELS
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-10462105-1.html?tag=mncol
Does anyone know if there is a diagnostic/menu feature on the TC-P58V10 that indicates number of power on hours? I was considering purchasing a display model at my local Best Buy. Thanks!
Basically, the only way a consumer will know about this issue with 2009 models is IF they read your part 2 which deals with 2010 models. AND then they read the comments which pertain to 2009 models. Makes sense ?
What I was suggesting is that you do not withdraw your rating. However, these points need to be UPDATED in the main article as CNET has responsibly done. Not buried in comments where most consumers are going to overlook it.
Btw, the link you posted regd the THX fix is wrong. It DID NOT fix it and it was the same version pushed out via Vieracast. There was a 2nd version of 1.28 released privately to some customers via SD card, others via a new a-board and still others who pulled that THX zip file from the techtraining site of Panny before they pulled it. THAT link fixed the THX issue in large part.
I see NOTHING about the BLACK LEVEL issues posted by C-NET that was first found on AVSFORUM.
Are you going to do this for the benefit of people who seem to be ignorant of the existence and value of AVSFORUM ? I hope you will, because it would otherwise be a disservice to consumers who are trusting of your reviews.
We responded days ago to a comment regarding the issue in the comments section of the 2010 Panasonic post. Here’s the link.
HD Guru
PIONEERGUY has been quiet for a coupla months, which is good. I just want to join other voices of sanity in pointing out the error of his ridiculous claims.
After writing many diatribes on Gucci HDMI cables and the absolute need for extended warranties, he further ruined his credibility by touting Voodoo tweaks like Teflon tape on power cords to reduce heat (use enough tape and the set will generate no heat at all!).
The only way to quantify performance differences between video cables is to MEASURE. Subjective observations are notoriously prone to bias, as in, “These cables cost $400, so they BETTER be good!” If any difference in cable performance is immediately obvious by eyeball, like his “video noise” claim, then you sure don’t need a Kuro to see it. And the mere assertion that silver co-ax cables improve performance is complete lunacy: It’s RF, fer Pete’s sake!
Does PIONEERGUY coat his CDs with a blue Sharpie to reduce high-frequency shrillness? Or did he eschew CDs altogether because LPs sound more “natural?” Does he use only vacuum tube amplifiers to avoid “transistor sound?”
I suspect, as have other contributors, that PIONEERGUY is easily swayed by lunatic fringe pseudo-science and black magic. I suspect even more strongly that he is actually Wally Wegrzyn, just tryin’ to make a living selling grossly overpriced cables.
We just bought the 54v10, however for 400 bucks more I can get the 58v10. MY questions is, is it worth it? Also is their any major differences between the two? I heard the 54 has a single pane while the 58 has 2. Any other major differences that will alter the picture quality? thanks
Only other thing Panny needs to make a better manual and be more clear !! But I’d rather have a Great Tv rather than a manual but come on it’s not that hard to write a better Manual! For the 54 V10 it was not made clear what was front and back and right and left to put in the stand fir one thing! So I just tryed it both ways to make sure, even though it will be mounted on the wall soon! Would also be nice to have a base that turns on the 54 ” like the Samsung!
But that does not matter if it is going on the wall !
HDMI cables even though I got a great deal on 900 monster cables from best buy with the Tv I got a 16′ and 4 ‘ for $ 40 each so I couldn’t beat that when the 16′ was $140 and $80 for the 4′ ! But as far as my experience the $ 40 cables from Sams club work just as good and monster makes Rockfish for BB!
Just don’t get the Real cheap $12-$20 ones there is a differnce and they kind of fall apart after a while, I don’t know how but they do I pulled out my old cheap cords when I upgraded to this new system and alot the cheap cables just were falling apart ? I don’t know if it’s from heat and years of sitting there but my old monster and SAMs club Optical are just fine actually the Sams club one held up even better and the sound and video are just as good! These are my first Hdmi cables! I have 2 monster one from my Samsung Blue Ray to raciever and one from reciever to the Tv and then one $40 one from my Panny DVD player and the picture is the same from both using a regular non Blue Ray movie with upconvert!
So I’d say if you can’t get an deal from the dealer which most will do if buying a $2000 Tv then get the $40 cables but not the cheap ones from Walmart!!
Can anyone tell me????
I just had the 55″ Samsung 7100 for 3 weeks and took it back! It was giving me migraines the LED and flashing was triggering my migains!! I trade in for a Panasonic 54V10 so far I really like it looks so much Richer in design besides the power button and little red light and I don’t care for the silver strip @ the bottom! But I guess I like the all black and touch power buttons or at least put it on the side.
I wish Panasonic would make a more modern classy menu it looks kind of genaric it’s the same as there DvD player! But that all small stuff the main thing is the picture!!
The one question I have if someone can help??
I’m watching Blue Ray movies and it has a snowy grain is this normal? It’s my first Plasma and The samsung was really clear but some movies to clear that it looked like a home shot B movie that someone called Soap box Tv look (which I hated and can not change on the samsung)
but I don’t know if it is because I watched that for 3 weeks that I notice the grainny look on the Panasanic?? Or is there a setting on the Tv and Blue Ray to make this more clear?? I’m going to wait 3 months and have it calaborated , does anyone know if this will also make things much clear?
The colors are much more relistic than the samsung and the samsung was why to bright I even had the backlighting on “0″ and the brightness way down and contests at 50% it really bothered my eyed and messed with my eyes causing migraines and made my stomach upset!! But I suffer from migraine so this might not happen fir others! So I hope this helps with anyones questions between Samsunds LEDs and Panasonics Plazma! Now if someone can help with settings for the Panisonic and Blue Ray ( useing Samsungs new blur Ray player) and going threw an New Onkyo reciever!! Thanks!
i just purchased my 58v10 last night, delivery on friday!! $1999 open box :) any recommendations on tv stands for this tv? are the break in slides included with tv, and make that much of a difference? calibration worth it? thank you!! happy watching!!
Purchased a TPC58V10 the other day to replace a DLP set I was displeased with before the bulb burned out.
The first problem was that my LG 390 bluray switches to a psychedelic version of the picture once it completes its initial bootup when connected through my older Yamaha receiver. So I had to get a new receiver.
The second problem is with displaying images from Windows XP using a 3400 series display card with an HDMI output. Neither of the two size settings will fill the screen. The picture is fuzzy enough that I have to select large fonts in Windows. It is apparent that the dot clock is off because the visual effect is the same as on other displays when the dot clock is off. Unfortunately there does not seem to be any dot clock adjustment.
Is the v10 close but no cigar?
I am sold in regard to the issue of the HDMI. There is no reason to buy an expensive HDMI cable. My question is whether there is a difference between using HDMI or component cable in the panni p50v10
Thanks in advance
Ben: I got a V10 because I watch only movies. No TV.
Regarding cables:
As a PhD electrical engineer and expert in digital signal processing and communications (and audiophile for 40 years), I can assure you that expensive cables are a gimmick. As long as the HDMI cable’s connectors are of decent quality, buy it.
With so-called “digital” signals, either the signal is transmitted/detected with a sufficiently low bit-error rate (BER) to transfer the information, or it doesn’t. With error-correcting codes, the raw BER can be fairly high before you would have a problem. (BTW, all electromagnetic signals are analog, hence my reference to “so-called”).
The conductors (copper vs. silver) and the quality of the dielectric (internal insulation, having an impact on signal loss, dispersion, and impedance matching) are of little consequence unless you have such a long cable that propagation loss or signal dispersion become an issue. For a typical 6 foot cable, this is not an issue. Signal dispersion, losses, and EMI will increase BER once they reach a certain threshold, but this does not generally justify insanely-priced cables.
I love my V10!
I am going to buy a 54″ Panasonic plasma within the next few weeks. I am torn between the V10 and G10. If you had to lay down your own money, which set would you buy? Does the V10′s 24p Cinematic Playback justify the extra cost?
JUSTIN and others mention being able to get a good price for this TV.. please post WHERE. Thank you!
Just purchased Panny 54V10…what are the settings everyone is using? Custom is my favorite, but I continue to screw around with all of the different settings. Can anyone help me out?
Also one more question, what would you recommend for a good surround sound system. I can get a good discount from Panasonic. Do you recommend any of their models?
I can get a good price on this TV and can’t wait to get it but. I am debating whether to buy the 54 inch or 58 inch or…. go all out and get the 65 inch model. This might be a dumb question but I was wondering if there is any difference at all in picture quality between the models?
Also in the review you mentioned the Soap Opera Effect (SOE) that you find on many LCDs. I think I read it right, are you saying that SOE does not exist with the V10 series (it preserves the film look)
Thanks for the help.
Im sort of a professional fighting games player, it took them preety seriously, at least for my knowledge of how the game works, and in games like Tekken 6 and SF4 por PS3, a difference of one frame of input lag can make the difference between winning a $6000 1st place price and $1000 2nd place price. With that in maind, HDGURU or anyone else, could you either test or post your findings in this V10 tv or any other tv that has the best of both worlds, pic quality and input lag free or 1 frame/9 ms or less? Thx in advance
I just bought the 54V10 and it’s unreal to say the least. I went and adjusted the setting to cnet’s specs and it really is amazing. Just an FYI I have the tv in the living room which has a huge picture window and the tv still looks great during the day. This was a concern for me so I wanted to share that info with people that are worried about that too. What I really need help with is regarding the 100 hour break in period. The only articles I see on the net about this is all older articles (2007 and earlier) Do I need to do this dvd process? Also should I be afraid of my settings being too bright with less then 100hrs? Let’s stop talking about $300 HDMI cables and help a new plasma owner ;) Thanks in advance for any info.. and ty HDGURU for this review. I once read having choices is nice, but not having to make one is better. After reading your review the choice was simple.
NOT EVEN the new top of the line Premiere series.. THE Panasonic 65VX100U > $10,000 can match the perforance of the Pioneer Elite Plasmas ! …. http://www.ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplay/panasonic_th-65vx100u_plasma_monitor/
Anbody have a G10 or V10 with PC connected through HDMI? I’d really like to know if it goes full 1920×1080 that way. (cuz as I said b4 is doesnt do that using VGA input) TIA
Of course I agree that cables is pretty much cables. Same scam goes on with analog audio. At least there is a difference in performance between them, but its a sad joke of a marginal improvement that you could NEVER hear no matter how golden your ears. Speaking of BS, BoSe is the no.1 of all BSers. They make crappy to mediocre speakers etc. and charge a premium. Instead of spending their money on producing quality, they spend it on
marketing lies, gimmicks, and unabashed self-promotion. Their ‘tech’ is just gimmicks that they tell eveyone is amazing. Ask any audio professional or engineer. You’ll seldom see any Bose in the studio, or in their homes. I think many people know all this, but just thought I might save some people some time, and maybe money.
I’m not saying some of their stuff won’t suffice for casual listener, I’m saying its mediocre at best and always priced like it’s something special. It definately aint.
Pioneerguy
Do you know anything about cable testing? It’s done independently from any factors that could skew the results, lets say for example, hooking them up to a video source. Are you truly this dumb or just uninformed?
You truly need a tin foil hat to prevent the aliens from frying your brain any more.
Pioneerdude,
You must own or have a vested interest in Wegrzyn. Cable quality varies with manufacturer however transmission quality of a digital signal is generally unaffected by cable material or construction unless it was so poorly constructed that it doesn’t work.
Paying $100 for a HDMI cable versus $10 is not too bright, especially when the general consensus says there is no difference between them.
I was chatting with a major cable manufacturer who supplies HDMI cables as well as many others to a major retailer. On sales of $36 million there was a net profit of $35 million. So tell me again about your exceptionally well performing cable that noticeably improves the picture quality.
This may not be important to many people, but Im really pissed the panny’s dont support full res on PC input. Hello, um games! The samsungs do. WTF is the matter with panny? I was all set to get a v10, but this issue is a deal breaker for me. I thought the panny looked better (but dimmer) than samsung.
In fact I was really impressed. It must have been in THX mode it looked so natural. but again wth is up with max 1366×768 for PC? dammit!
The price diff for a 50″ G10 vs 50″ V10 is around $600 right now – is it worth the upgrade to go with the V10?
I went with the S1 over the V10 due to a long wait in the 65 inch size. It was also at least 6-700 more. I figure I can play with the settings and it will look good either way.
Dave, where are you seeing 54v10 for $1900 out the door?
Need help, can’t make up my mind between 54G10 and 54V10. I can get the 54G10 for about $1470 out the door and the 54V10 for $1900 out the door. I guess the question is, is the extra 430 worth it for the V10? Need help as I need to buy one quickly!