Comments on: The HD Guru Picks The Worst HDTVs http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/ HDTV news, revews and information Fri, 30 Jul 2010 02:48:15 -0700 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0 By: Black Friday http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-26577 Black Friday Wed, 12 Nov 2008 08:44:57 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-26577 <strong>Black Friday</strong> \'Wretched excess is an unfortunate human trait that turns a perfectly good idea such as Christmas into a frenzy of last-minute shopping-or attaches the name of St. Patrick to the day of the year that bartenders fear most.\' -Jon Anderson Happy Ho... Black Friday

\’Wretched excess is an unfortunate human trait that turns a perfectly good idea such as Christmas into a frenzy of last-minute shopping-or attaches the name of St. Patrick to the day of the year that bartenders fear most.\’ -Jon Anderson Happy Ho…

]]> By: LEE http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-22596 LEE Mon, 04 Aug 2008 02:42:44 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-22596 I am looking to buy a 32in. or 37in. LCD or plasma screen TV in about six months. I want to spend around $700 to $800. Is the non-name brands of Tv's like dynex or insignia a bad route to go. I want to get the best value for my money, I just can't seem to find a good opinion. Any help would be great. thanks I am looking to buy a 32in. or 37in. LCD or plasma screen TV in about six months. I want to spend around $700 to $800. Is the non-name brands of Tv’s like dynex or insignia a bad route to go. I want to get the best value for my money, I just can’t seem to find a good opinion. Any help would be great. thanks

]]> By: Larry http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-17375 Larry Thu, 27 Mar 2008 04:37:43 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-17375 Bigger is better. Don't let anyone fool you. I'm leaning toward rear-projection and the biggest and lowest price I've seen is Mitsubishi WD 73734. I hear alot about Pioneer but don't see much out there. What do you think about the Mit-73734. Can you recommend a better rear-projection for the money? Larry Bigger is better. Don’t let anyone fool you. I’m leaning toward rear-projection and the biggest and lowest price I’ve seen is Mitsubishi WD 73734.
I hear alot about Pioneer but don’t see much out there. What do you think about the Mit-73734. Can you recommend a better rear-projection for the money?
Larry

]]> By: Bill Mackin http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-1245 Bill Mackin Sat, 03 Feb 2007 06:22:44 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-1245 As I understand it, a TV is not a true HDTV unless it is 1280 x 720 or higher, and that a TV with 1024 x 720 (or 760 or 768 or 780) is an EDTV. Yet while looking at the HDTV listings on ebay, I saw the following listing: You are bidding on a BRAND NEW & SEALED IN THE BOX 42" OEM TRUE HD SAMSUNG PLASMA FLAT PANEL HDTV What do we mean by TRUE HD? <strong>According to the consumer electronics association all TVs with a vertical resolution of 720 or above are considered high defintion so this set qualifies </strong> Our oem branded plasmas use GENUINE Samsung HDTV plasma panels with a resolution of 1024 X 768 capable of displaying up to a native 1080i HD signal. <strong>Poorly written. The set will accept a 1080i signal and display it as 1024 x 768 </strong> Many dealers online are selling lower quality EDTV units as "HD" or "HDTV" that say only "HD Ready" and have resolutions of 852 X 480. To the casual shopper it appears they are getting true HD quality when they are NOT! Many dealers have older panel designs that only have 3000 or 4000 to 1 contrast ratios. Our GENUINE Samsung HDTV plasma panels have a 10,000 to 1 Contrast Ratio! <strong>As the HD Guru has written before, these contrast numbers are meaningless as there is no accepted industry standard for measurement. </strong> This is confusing me. While it say that its resolution is 1024 x 768 it is "capable of displaying up to a native 1080i HD signal". If it had 1080i resolution, shouldn't the resolution be listed as a higher resolution, something like (#pixels) x 1080? Are these people playing games with wording? Are they just saying that if this set receives a 1080 signal, that it will show on the screen? Are they misrepresenting the tv's capabilities or am I confused about the standards? Help me GURU! <strong>As stated above this falls under the catagory of poorly written copy and hype (puffing)</strong> <strong>The HD Guru </strong> As I understand it, a TV is not a true HDTV unless it is 1280 x 720 or higher, and that a TV with 1024 x 720 (or 760 or 768 or 780) is an EDTV. Yet while looking at the HDTV listings on ebay, I saw the following listing:

You are bidding on a
BRAND NEW & SEALED IN THE BOX
42″ OEM TRUE HD SAMSUNG PLASMA
FLAT PANEL HDTV

What do we mean by TRUE HD?

According to the consumer electronics association all TVs with a vertical resolution of 720 or above are considered high defintion so this set qualifies 

Our oem branded plasmas use GENUINE Samsung HDTV plasma panels with a resolution of 1024 X 768 capable of displaying up to a native 1080i HD signal.

Poorly written. The set will accept a 1080i signal and display it as 1024 x 768 

Many dealers online are selling lower quality EDTV units as “HD” or “HDTV” that say only “HD Ready” and have resolutions of 852 X 480. To the casual shopper it appears they are getting true HD quality when they are NOT!

Many dealers have older panel designs that only have 3000 or 4000 to 1 contrast ratios. Our GENUINE Samsung HDTV plasma panels have a 10,000 to 1 Contrast Ratio!

As the HD Guru has written before, these contrast numbers are meaningless as there is no accepted industry standard for measurement. 

This is confusing me. While it say that its resolution is 1024 x 768 it is “capable of displaying up to a native 1080i HD signal”.

If it had 1080i resolution, shouldn’t the resolution be listed as a higher resolution, something like (#pixels) x 1080? Are these people playing games with wording? Are they just saying that if this set receives a 1080 signal, that it will show on the screen?

Are they misrepresenting the tv’s capabilities or am I confused about the standards?

Help me GURU!

As stated above this falls under the catagory of poorly written copy and hype (puffing)

The HD Guru 

]]> By: Howard http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-1109 Howard Wed, 24 Jan 2007 15:00:19 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-1109 Great site and thanks.What should I be looking for to see if I need a s-video cable?? Thanks ,howard <strong>You only need "S" video for standard definiton signals. S video cables do not vary much in quality in lengths under 10 ft, get the cheapest one. </strong> <strong>As far as cables for HD signals they are only component video, HDMI or DVI. </strong> <strong>The HD Guru </strong> Great site and thanks.What should I be looking for to see if I need a s-video cable?? Thanks ,howard

You only need “S” video for standard definiton signals. S video cables do not vary much in quality in lengths under 10 ft, get the cheapest one.

As far as cables for HD signals they are only component video, HDMI or DVI. 

The HD Guru 

]]> By: Don Alexander http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-977 Don Alexander Sat, 13 Jan 2007 21:36:15 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-977 I purchased a HP 32" LCD HD TV in the summer of 2005. When it was 16 months old, the picture would come on for about 10 seconds and then the screen would go black. HP referred me to Comp USA, who referred me to a local repair shop in the Kansas City area. HP wasn't interested in the set since it was 4 months out of warranty. The shop said that it would cost over $2000 to repair it. This was a set that cost $1500 in 2005 that is now selling for about $800. Need I say more! Don <strong>I took the liberty to forward your complaint to an HP contact (requesting a response to you) . Let me know how you make out.</strong> <strong>HD Guru </strong> I purchased a HP 32″ LCD HD TV in the summer of 2005. When it was 16 months old, the picture would come on for about 10 seconds and then the screen would go black. HP referred me to Comp USA, who referred me to a local repair shop in the Kansas City area. HP wasn’t interested in the set since it was 4 months out of warranty. The shop said that it would cost over $2000 to repair it. This was a set that cost $1500 in 2005 that is now selling for about $800. Need I say more!

Don

I took the liberty to forward your complaint to an HP contact (requesting a response to you) . Let me know how you make out.

HD Guru 

]]> By: MIKE http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-969 MIKE Fri, 12 Jan 2007 18:36:12 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-969 I WAS READING AN ARTICLE BY KEVIN HUNT/THE HARTFORD COURANT IN MY LOCAL NEWSPAPER ABOUT ADVICE ON PLASMA TV'S. THE FIRST THING PEOPLE ASK ABOUT PLASMA TVS IS BURN-IN,AND SHOULD PEOPLE BE CONCERNED? IT WAS ANSWERED,BURN-IN IS A MYTH THAT SIMPLY IS NOT TRUE.I BEG TO DIFFER.I RECENTLY HAD MY PLASMA TV CHECKED AND WAS TOLD,WHAT I'M SEEING ON THE SCREEN IS BURN-IN AND NOTHING CAN BE DONE ABOUT IT. WHOM EVER SAID THIS ABOUT BURN-IN SHOULD COME TO MY HOUSE AND I'LL SHOW THEM. THANK YOU, MICHAEL <strong>If you follow my precautions listed in my archive Plasma article you could have prevented the screen burn-in. </strong> <strong>Here is how to reduce or eliminate the burn-in that is now on your plasma. (after you do this please reset the user controls as instructed in my archived plasma article when you have finished restoring the panel.) </strong> <strong>You will need a source that will give you an all white screen. This could be a DVR or DVD. There are test DVD discs (video essentials and avia to name two) that have this pattern or you can try to find a scene that fades to all white in a tv program, or movie disc and freeze frame. Not all DVD players have a screen saver override but you need to use one that does. It doesn't matter which input you use for an all white screen source (it can be component, S video HDMI or composite)</strong> <strong>Once you have the all white screen up, crank up the picture (contrast) control to 100% . The burn in will fade by doing this though depending the severity but it will take hours or possibly a day or more of keeping the  all white pattern on the screen to get the maximum reduction or elimination of the "burn in". </strong> <strong>Once you have reduced or eliminated the burn in, lower the contrast contol to half or less on all inputs. Settting the contrast too high is what contributed to the burn-in in the first place.</strong> <strong>The HD Guru </strong> I WAS READING AN ARTICLE BY KEVIN HUNT/THE HARTFORD COURANT IN MY LOCAL NEWSPAPER ABOUT ADVICE ON PLASMA TV’S.
THE FIRST THING PEOPLE ASK ABOUT PLASMA TVS IS BURN-IN,AND SHOULD PEOPLE BE CONCERNED?
IT WAS ANSWERED,BURN-IN IS A MYTH THAT SIMPLY IS NOT TRUE.I BEG TO DIFFER.I RECENTLY HAD MY PLASMA TV CHECKED AND WAS TOLD,WHAT I’M SEEING ON THE SCREEN IS BURN-IN AND NOTHING CAN BE DONE ABOUT IT.
WHOM EVER SAID THIS ABOUT BURN-IN SHOULD COME TO MY HOUSE AND I’LL SHOW THEM.
THANK YOU,
MICHAEL

If you follow my precautions listed in my archive Plasma article you could have prevented the screen burn-in.

Here is how to reduce or eliminate the burn-in that is now on your plasma. (after you do this please reset the user controls as instructed in my archived plasma article when you have finished restoring the panel.)

You will need a source that will give you an all white screen. This could be a DVR or DVD. There are test DVD discs (video essentials and avia to name two) that have this pattern or you can try to find a scene that fades to all white in a tv program, or movie disc and freeze frame. Not all DVD players have a screen saver override but you need to use one that does. It doesn’t matter which input you use for an all white screen source (it can be component, S video HDMI or composite)

Once you have the all white screen up, crank up the picture (contrast) control to 100% . The burn in will fade by doing this though depending the severity but it will take hours or possibly a day or more of keeping the  all white pattern on the screen to get the maximum reduction or elimination of the “burn in”.

Once you have reduced or eliminated the burn in, lower the contrast contol to half or less on all inputs. Settting the contrast too high is what contributed to the burn-in in the first place.

The HD Guru

]]> By: Alana http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-968 Alana Fri, 12 Jan 2007 15:25:29 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-968 Do you consider Polaroid an "off-brand"? I'm considering purchasing the Polaroid FLM-4234BH: 42" FHD Widescreen LCD TV with ATSC Tuner. Have you tested it? <strong>I have not tested this model. The Polaroid brand is a licensed by third party companies. These "tier three" brands generally outsource their panels from Chinese or Korean vendors. I find the tier three brands do not have the state of the art LCD panel technology that the tier one name brands possess. My big complaints about LCD and in particular the earlier generation panels are angle of view and motion blur issues.</strong> <strong>Move off of horizontal center and observe the degree of  the blacks get lighter and the whites become darker as you move to the side. I recommend credits scrolling at the end of a DVD movie to check motion blur. </strong> <strong>Bottom line, for better overall picture quality, viewing angle and freedom of motion blur, the HD Guru recommends Plasma over LCD in the 37" and over sizes. The  Panasonic, Hitachi and Pioneer are my top choices  for 42" plasma. </strong> <strong>If you want to stick to LCD I generally favor the tier one brands and I like the SPVA panel technology found in select Sony and Samsung LCD panels ( they have better viewing angles) </strong> <strong>HDGuru </strong> Do you consider Polaroid an “off-brand”? I’m considering purchasing the Polaroid FLM-4234BH: 42″ FHD Widescreen LCD TV with ATSC Tuner. Have you tested it?

I have not tested this model. The Polaroid brand is a licensed by third party companies. These “tier three” brands generally outsource their panels from Chinese or Korean vendors. I find the tier three brands do not have the state of the art LCD panel technology that the tier one name brands possess. My big complaints about LCD and in particular the earlier generation panels are angle of view and motion blur issues.

Move off of horizontal center and observe the degree of  the blacks get lighter and the whites become darker as you move to the side. I recommend credits scrolling at the end of a DVD movie to check motion blur.

Bottom line, for better overall picture quality, viewing angle and freedom of motion blur, the HD Guru recommends Plasma over LCD in the 37″ and over sizes. The  Panasonic, Hitachi and Pioneer are my top choices  for 42″ plasma.

If you want to stick to LCD I generally favor the tier one brands and I like the SPVA panel technology found in select Sony and Samsung LCD panels ( they have better viewing angles)

HDGuru 

]]> By: glenn orman http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-870 glenn orman Fri, 05 Jan 2007 13:47:45 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-870 I own a Mitsubishi WD-62927. When watching live sports in 1080i on CBS and NBC the screen is very blocky while there is alot of motion. I do not see this on other hd channels. Is this due to poor signal quality? What is the technical name for this? Does the next generation of HDTVs address this problem? <strong>You don't write if your reception is over-the-air, cable or satellite. it is called macroblocking and it could be poor  signal reception or your local brodcaster or cable system. If you are using an antenna try an in line amplifier (radio shack sells some poor ones but they may do the job)  I use a winegard antenna amp. If it is cable, call your cable provider.  </strong> <strong>The HD Guru </strong> I own a Mitsubishi WD-62927. When watching live sports in 1080i on CBS and NBC the screen is very blocky while there is alot of motion. I do not see this on other hd channels. Is this due to poor signal quality? What is the technical name for this?
Does the next generation of HDTVs address this problem?

You don’t write if your reception is over-the-air, cable or satellite. it is called macroblocking and it could be poor  signal reception or your local brodcaster or cable system. If you are using an antenna try an in line amplifier (radio shack sells some poor ones but they may do the job)  I use a winegard antenna amp. If it is cable, call your cable provider.  

The HD Guru 

]]> By: rick http://hdguru.com/the-hd-guru-picks-the-worst-hdtvs/32/comment-page-1/#comment-868 rick Fri, 05 Jan 2007 04:20:46 +0000 http://hdguru.com/?p=32#comment-868 I have a question. i have just bought a 42 sanyo vizion plasma tv. im not sure of the number but it's only at walmart. my question is i just saw a panisonic 42 plasma th42px6u for a little more is there a substantial quality difference between the two? and if so what?............rick in ny <strong>Sanyo sells TVs exclusively to Wal-mart. The Panasonic in my tests is one of the finest 42" on the market (other two are the Hitachi and Pioneer) . The Panasonic HD plasma have excellent black levels and contrast ratios and properly deinterlace 1080i for a fine HD image. Yes the Panasonic is a much better performer than the Sanyo and worth the extra dough.</strong> <strong>The HD Guru </strong> <strong> </strong> I have a question. i have just bought a 42 sanyo vizion plasma tv. im not sure of the number but it’s only at walmart. my question is i just saw a panisonic 42 plasma th42px6u for a little more is there a substantial quality difference between the two? and if so what?…………rick in ny

Sanyo sells TVs exclusively to Wal-mart. The Panasonic in my tests is one of the finest 42″ on the market (other two are the Hitachi and Pioneer) . The Panasonic HD plasma have excellent black levels and contrast ratios and properly deinterlace 1080i for a fine HD image. Yes the Panasonic is a much better performer than the Sanyo and worth the extra dough.

The HD Guru 

 

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