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What Retailers Don’t Want You To Know About HDMI Cables

If you’re planning to buy a upconverting DVD player, PlayStation 3 or high def tuner for your HDTV this holiday, expect the salesman to say you’ll need an HDMI cable to make the connection. The upconverting DVD player will cost as little as $70, but the six to eight foot HDMI cable he’ll be pushing will cost around $100 to $120. Why is the cable so expensive? So the retailer can make a greater profit on the sale. The fact is, you can purchase an HDMI cable for less than one tenth the price and get the same great picture. Here’s what you need to know.

HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) is generally the best connection between a source component and a high definition display. The cable carries digital audio and video with a copy protection. These wires are available in lengths from one and a half feet to over fifty feet. What the store salesmen will not tell you: no matter how much or how little you pay for a cable, you can only see one of two types of pictures –Perfect or Bad.

Perfect means no artifacts such as sparkles. Bad means artifacts or no image. Electronics store salesmen will tout you on gold plated connectors, thicker shielding, heavy-duty construction, name brands and so on, but it really wouldn’t make an iota of difference in picture or sound quality. It’s that simple. The signal running through an HDMI is digital, just a series of ones and zeros. No matter what anyone tells you, getting all the ones and zeros from one end of the cable to the other is all an HDMI cable is supposed to do. No matter how expensive and fancy the HDMI cable, the image can’t improve! The cable can only be good or bad.

So how much should you pay for an HDMI cable? As little as you can. A quick search of online retailers, found the lowest price at monoprice.com where a 6 foot HDMI cables start at $9.29 including shipping and handling, in single lot quantities. (This is informational only we have not sampled their cables). Wal-mart sells a 6ft. Philips HDMI cable in-store for $26.85. Monoprice and other retailers also sell heavier duty cables with thicker gauge wires, though as stated above, an HDMI cable either works perfectly or doesn’t. Paying more will not provide any improvement, if your present HDMI cable functions properly. Save your money for more important things, like HD movie discs and video games.

Comments

Vance Cary
Posted on 24th November, 2006

This is so true. My only comment is that where was this website when i bought my new DLP HD TV! I got suckered in to the gold plated heavy gauge cable.

Pat Monahan
Posted on 24th November, 2006

My Sony 50″ Wega HDTV has a very nice and clear picture. Would a HDMI cable really improve quality? Thanks

Richard Jackson
Posted on 24th November, 2006

I purchased 2 Sony large screen T.V.’s a 46″ and a 53″ about 2 and 3 years ago respectivily. They are both HDTV ready, one has the DVI output, but neither have HDMI outputs. Is there anyway I can upgrade to higher definition with these sets? Is there any kind of adapter avaliable.

Richard Jackson

S. Edmund Johnson
Posted on 24th November, 2006

I thought you might want to look into the Sceptre 42″ LCD HDTV available through Costco (Item 970637). I paid $1,799 for mine a few months ago, and it is now selling for $1,499, shipping and handling included!

I think it is a great set with the following drawback. It has a thick umbilical cable that goes between the display and a large “tuner” box. If you can put up with that, it supports ATSC off air, 2 HDMI ports, 1 Component port, 2 480 analog ports plus VGA inputs.

It has 1920 x 1080 native resolution and supports 1080i and 1080p as well as 720p and 480.

Lee
Posted on 24th November, 2006

I have one of those Phillips cables, and it works just fine, for less than a third of the cheapest cable at Best Buy.
I install HD Dish systems, and I always tell my customers to buy the cheapest ones they can, but I so appreciate the information on where it is cheaper, and verification that all the frills don’t matter.

Thanks Guru!

Dieter Gunther
Posted on 24th November, 2006

Just purchased the 6ft Philips HDMI cable from Walmart off the net. Add about $7.00 in shipping if you can’t stand going there. Thanks for the tip and the reason for it. It either works or it won’t. Brilliant.

Gene
Posted on 24th November, 2006

Now you tell me.

Michael
Posted on 24th November, 2006

This is so true. I picked mine up from walmart

Claudia Morris
Posted on 25th November, 2006

 Thanks for the article about the cable. Here’s another site for inexpensive cable.

http://www.firefold.com/category.aspx?categoryID=57

Mike
Posted on 25th November, 2006

Finally a website that is not trying to get rich off of HD craze. I went and bought a HDMI cable off eBay and had no problem with it, I paid $9.00 and it included shipping. I work for a cable company and install a lot of HD boxes. You can always see who didn’t research what they need and what the salesperson could sell them. Maybe now I can refer people to this website, instead of them taking my word.

Thanks!

Thank you Mike

The HD Guru

john sanabria
Posted on 25th November, 2006

I recently purchased a pdp-4270hd great set! However, I didn’t noticed it on your top 10 hdtv’s is there some thing I don’t know? OOps too late.

lester housel
Posted on 25th November, 2006

Got my HDMI cable from Walmart and works great.
Who makes a 2 or 4way HDMI switch so I can connect my HD Sony Camcorder and my Panasonic DVD which both have HDMI out?
It gets a little inconvenient to uncable and cable to the SONY TV which only has ONE HDMI In.

chaz
Posted on 25th November, 2006

i purchased some monster cable hdmi ti dvi to see if there was a difference between my kimber kable component. and didnt see anything, but un natural color with the digital.this was hooked up via samsng dlp and arcam dvd player.now for the quistion is there a better performoing dvi to hdmi cable?and is there a website that test such cables?

nick cashetta
Posted on 25th November, 2006

JUST NICE TO KNOW YOU GUYS ARE OUY THERE THANK YOU

Adam Domurad
Posted on 25th November, 2006

I am sorry, but to say that a 349.99 dollar cable will work the same as a 9.95 cable you have to be out of your mind. Listen, yes it’s all ones and zeros…but I also know that when you burn a cd on a computer and burn a cd in a dedicated cd burner that the dedicated copy is “way” better. What’s the deal with that, it’s all ones and zeros. I am not going to believe that a cheap low grade cable will perform as well as a high end one. Real life example. I own a Denon DVD-2910…when I got it I connected the HDMI cable that was supplied with the cable while I waited for my Audioquest HDMI-1 cable to arrive. Picutre looked good, I was upconverting to 7520p. After receieving my Audioquest HDMI-1..I hooked this up and immediately my picture got smoother with less video noise in the backround. So don’t tell me that “cables” don’t make a difference. Will a cheap cable get the signal there, of course it will, but I refuse to put a 9.95 cable onto a $5000.00 HDTV

As I stated, there are two states for picture quality for getting the signal from a souce to a display via HDMI. Using a bad cable will produce digital artifacts i.e sparkles . A good cable will not. obviously the first cable was bad. There is no good ,better, best in digital cables. This is not analog audio. If you feel better buying a thicker, better constructed cable with a fancy gold plated connector don’t let me stop you. If it is a good cable it will do as good of a job as any “good” cable.

The HD Guru

Ken Morgan
Posted on 25th November, 2006

I just upgraded to the Direct TV HD-DVR, it came with a free “cheap” HDMI cable that the installer told me would make my picture look poor. he sold me one for $150 that is pretty blue?
I should have read this earlier.

carl scharf
Posted on 25th November, 2006

we had home installation of our hdtv by best buy people. we were told we needed the hdmi cable since dish people didn’t put one on with new receiver. cost us $64 bucks. got ripped off by installers so beware.

Per Landeck
Posted on 25th November, 2006

You’re absolutely right! My HDMI cables are all inxpensive Radio Shack brand cables. The salesman tried to move me over to Monster brand at more than 3X the cost. You’re a great source for HDTV info. keep up the good work.

Tim A.
Posted on 26th November, 2006

I was sold the expensive cable based on the line: “our customers have found that the cheaper cables snap and leave the connector in the TV” sounds bad.

He must have read this web site before me, and is not going with the heavier gauge theory anymore.

Rob
Posted on 26th November, 2006

You guys are right on the money!! I did some research on cables when I was looking for my HD TV. Got my HDMI cables at SAMS’s. 6 ft, $23 each. I am sure the $10 ones at monoprice or eBay would have been fine also. Was in too much of a hurry to set my new TV up so I snagged the pair at SAM’s – could not wait to have them shipped. Sales guy at Circuit City tried to sell me $90 cables. I should buy some stock in Monstercable. Lots of people are falling for the hype.

Great site!

Rob
Posted on 26th November, 2006

This is not in the correct area of your site, so please feel free to move it.

Could you answer a question no one seems to be able to answer? Maybe you can?

I brought my pickup truck to the store to pick up my plasma HDTV. When I got there the guy tells me the TV has to stand up, you can’t lay it down. Box also had the same warnings all over it. So it got loaded into the back of the cab for the trip home. It just fit!

I asked why I could not lay it down. Box/packaging looked like it could take it. He says you can’t lay plasma TV’s down because it mixes up the gases. I almost laughed. I knew this could not be the reason.

I’m guessing the reason you shouldn’t lay a big plasma down has something to do with the glass? Maybe the manufacturer is afraid someone will lay something on the face of the box and damage the glass? I still think it would have been OK to lay it down in the bed of my truck.

Any ideas? Thanks!! Your site is going to be a big hit!!!

Ben Hancock
Posted on 26th November, 2006

Are you going to publish, in detail, on how to interface with a home stereo system? Basicly, how to hook it all up.

Ben

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Yes, we’re working a graphic connection pages, it will be up as soon as it is ready.

 The HD Guru

 

 

Bill
Posted on 26th November, 2006

I enjoyed your article on HDMI cables. Thanks for confirming what I had suspected; that gold plating, thickness, etc. doesn’t make much difference (except in price!).

However, doesn’t the version of HDMI (1.1,1.2, or the upcoming 1.3) make a difference? Should one wait for 1.3 before purchasing a HDTV?

Thanks

Steve
Posted on 26th November, 2006

Same thing applies to all digital signals. That 99 dollar optical digital cable wont perform any better then the 10 dollar one.

Dave Bylsma
Posted on 26th November, 2006

I’ve been trying to record DVD’s from movies that I recordered on my Motorola cable box with hard drive without much success. I read on your site that HDMI cables are copy protected. Could that be the reason that I get sound but no picture or picture but no sound?

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Many of the premium movie channels use copy protection. For analog transfer one of the most frequently employed copy protection schemes CGMS-A (Copy Generation Management System Analog) . It is problaly set for copy 1 time (to your DVR). It does not permit a second copy such as archiving to a DVD

The HD Guru

jeff z
Posted on 26th November, 2006

I agree with Adam Domurad. I used all optical cable for my sound system. When i used cheaper cables the sound was good but not as good as the monster wires took it. It is also the same with my HDTV. I did a test with the same two TVs. One using a cheap cable and one using a monster cable. The monster connected TV looked way better.

jk
Posted on 26th November, 2006

great web site, thanks

LeeH
Posted on 27th November, 2006

We had this debate at my store last year and the only possible issue we could come up with is that the transmission of signal from source to monitor has no error correction; that is, if data packets are lost, they are not retransmitted — but what exactly these lost data packets would result in visually is unknown. The idea was floated that perhaps the better grade cables *could* lower the percentage of data loss.

That said, what you have posted is correct in that being digital, attenuation of signal would not have any effect.

Mike
Posted on 27th November, 2006

I purchased a Sony 720p LCD Tv. I have (as most people) a cable box that allows an HDMI hook up or component cables. The cable company did not provide an HDMI cable, so I had to look for one. When I went to my local electronics store, the salesman told me that I did not need an HDMI cable because my TV was only 720p and that HDMI only supported 1080p. So I bought an expensive set of component cables. When I hooked it up, the HD channels came in pretty good, but the rest of the channels don’t look so good, at least not what I expected from an HDTV. My question is, should I have bought the HDMI cable? Will it give me a better quality picture than the component cables?

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Yes go for HDMI. Component video cables vary in quality.  In theory, if the component video section of your source component, display and the  component video cable you choose are designed properly and not defective, the would be no inherent advantage in using HDMI. However, there is no way for the consumer to know this.

With HDMI cable there is only good or bad no medicore or fair quality to be concerned about. This makes an HDMI cable your best choice for connection between an HD source and your display. Add the advantage of one cable replacing five at a cost of around 25 dollars at the local Wal-mart. At that price it costs around the same as a component video cable plus a digital digital audio cable.

The HD Guru 

  

Neal Schwartz
Posted on 27th November, 2006

Just bought Hitachi 42HDX99 ($2500). Speaking of cables, Component or HDMI Inputs do not allow Monitor & Hi-Fi Audio Out (from the TV), so I can’t run sound out to my external sound system. Hitachi says it’s to insure no copyright infringement. I assume this means I have to downgrade my inputs to S-Video or Composite Video?

David D.
Posted on 27th November, 2006

The “Jim Wilkins” comment of your spelling mistake of tout as “taut” has its own error! It should have read “article that you spelled”, not “article that your spelled. Hilarious!!!

richard kahn
Posted on 27th November, 2006

dear sirs i have a sony lcd rear projection 50 inch that is 3 years old with the new direct tv tuner that has hdmi jacks, unfortunately my tv only has component or dvi. problem is i am also running everything throgh my harman kardon avr635 which only has component hook up how much quality am i loosing by not using hdmi and should i bypass the hk 635 for video signal and go straight to the tv from the dtv reciever thanks rich

RVK
Posted on 27th November, 2006

This is an excellent site! Very informative.

My question – If I have a choice to get a HD Cable box from TWC either with a DVI connection or HDMI connection, which is better? I have a Panasonic HDTV (TH-42PX60U) that has two HDMI connections.

Am I correct in my assumption that if I get a HD cable box with HDMI connection then I would not need any “audio connection” but if I get a HD cable box with DVI connection then I will have to hook up the audio connection?

Is the Video/Sound better with HDMI connection?

I have a SONY SAVA-59 Home theater system hooked to my HDTV .

Thanks.

Rob

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DVI and HDMI carry the same video signal and are fully compatible with an adapter. The difference is, HDMI also carries digital audio along with the video. HDMI/DVI will usually provide a better image than component video and reduces the number of video cables from 3 to 1

To connect the audio portion to your surround sound receiver will require a digital connection (optical or coaxial) from the set top box to the surround sound receiver. Only the most recent model surround receivers have HDMI inputs and outputs. 

The HD Guru

 

 

Debra
Posted on 27th November, 2006

Will you please assess the Vizio Plasma TV’s and let me know. I notice they come with a 1 yr. in home service warranty. Hurry, shopping days are limited for Xmas.
Thank You

Bill H
Posted on 27th November, 2006

Do I (we) need to buy the expensive surge protectors and/or line conditioning widgits that the retailers are pushing?

chris N
Posted on 27th November, 2006

Can you talk about setting the color and contrast on a plasma?

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The calibration dvd discs : video essentials, avia ,hdtv calibration wizard make it easy. If you don’t have one of these discs here is what I recommend you do to set your plasma

There are 5 basic picture controls , color, contrast (aka picture) brightess, sharpness and tint.

The most critical is the contrast (picture) control especially for plasma and crt based HDTVs (they both use phosphors)

For plasma I recommend you set the contrast control (also called white level) initally to it 50% setting, after getting the set out of it default mode (usually Vivid) and into standard mode (or the equivalent)  

The image may be darker than you prefer, but you will be rewarded with long display  life, without burn in if you do this for the first 200 hours. After that break-in period you may set the contrast higher, but the higher the setting the shorter the life of the display. If the contrast is set too high, the image will suffer because the whites will lose detail. This is called white crush. to get the ideal setting requires test equipment or a calibration disc. For most TVs it is around 60% setting

Brightness  

Go to a movie or a DVD with a letterbox image (black bars at the top and bottom) raise the brightness until you the   bars gets lighter, then reduce to the point where they are the darkest. This may take a few up down cycles to pin point the optimum setting. 

Sharpness depends on the set, no harm if it is too high but you will begin to see light outlines around people or objects on the screen when its too high of a level.

Color and tint  requires a blue filter packed with avia and video essentials to set to the industry standard . I say set to taste . no damage on phophor sets unless you have it way oversaturated to the point where you see unatural color or bleeding .   

The HD Guru 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John P.
Posted on 27th November, 2006

Ill tell you that an HDMI cable is a god send!I just got the hatachi Ultravision 42 inch plasma.i had dish network in digital but could not get me the HD lineup cause of the neighbors trees.So ihad to switch to cable!I was very leary cause its cable, thought it would be poorer picture quality…Boy was i sooo wrong..There is a big differance in the hd channels!And even with my HDMI cable hooked up to it makes all the differance…I got my HDMI cable at wal-mart for 31.00 bucks…Cause HATACHI service rep’ said it did not matter the price of the cable it all runs through copper wireing!!It is really cool to watch tv now..Thank Goodness for HD GURU To have forums like this..I learn a lot about HD products…Keep up the good work!!Thanks…John P.

Steve D
Posted on 28th November, 2006

What about length? I’ve got to go about 50 ft with a DVI-D cable. IS there any loss with the HDMI or DVI cables at that length??

Thanks Steve

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Making a DVI or HDMI cable that is 50 ft.  or longer is tougher to maufacture than a shorter length . It requires thicker gauge wire and better design/construction because the losses are higher , (all things being equal ) the longer you go. Many of the long cables I see have 22 AWG (gauge) wire, others use 24 AWG. The lower number is thicker.

As stated in the article , there are just two states it could be in . It is either good or bad. If the one you pick works, its good . (There are other varibles as to whether it will work with your equipment including but not limited to who’s DVI transmitter and receiver are being impliment in your source and display.

One last note: The is a testing certification called Simplay HD that would appear on the package if it passes these tests. This is a QC assurance test for the design and the cable should work with this logo on the package (if its not a defective unit)  Its like the  DVI/HDMI good housekeeping seal of approval

The HD Guru

Bob T.
Posted on 28th November, 2006

I recently purchased a 32″Westinghouse w/o HDMI.I also purchased a Panasonic DVD recorder which does have an HDMI port.The HDMI is supposed to boost the DVD recording,when played,to near HD quality.
Am I out of luck w/o an HDMI on my HDTV?I understand conversion cables will not help.
One other question,when will a dedicated HDDVD recorder become available?Thank you,love this site.
Bob T.

R. Williams
Posted on 28th November, 2006

I bought a 37 in mintek hd/dvd lcd tv. It comes with two hdmi input. I plan to use the hdmi from the directv rec to the tv. To get the best audio
for the dvd in the tv, what should I use from tv to my older sony home theater system?

lane elliott
Posted on 28th November, 2006

Hi,
I just picked up a Mac Mini to hook up to my Mitsubishi 52″ HDTV. We want to use it as the multimedia media/internet server.

I followed the instructions and I get a great picture but it will not fill up the screen so that viewing it from the couch makes reading the content impossible. I tried the interlaced setting and it was horrible. I tried the other resolution settings on the Mini to no avail. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated?

Dick Wendelburg
Posted on 28th November, 2006

I recently had Direct HDTV Satellite hookup with Sceptre 42″ HDTV Monitor and external box.
When technician hooked up HDMI cable he kept getting great picture for 5 seconds, then blue screen, then great picture again.
He finally used an S Video cable (leaving the HDMI hookup) and the problem went away.
My question is: Am I losing some picture quality by having the S Video hookup? Does it override the HDMI?

janet cummins
Posted on 28th November, 2006

I am hearing that playing games (playstation etc.) will burn out the liquid crystals in an LCD
HDTV. Is this true? also what about rca, ilo,
sanyo, viore(i think) magnovox and poliroid brands?
have a chance at 20% off. most are intergrated and
are 1366×768 32″and 37″? have considered seating,
37 or 42, no bigger no smaller for the room placement. I am a first time buyer, what do you
recommend? thanks, janet

Mike
Posted on 28th November, 2006

I’m just wondering why I did not get an answer to my question?

Murf
Posted on 28th November, 2006

Guru, will you please cover the surge/filter protection issue? It seems like it is a lot like the hdmi cable issue.
thx

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Done

The HD Guru 

 

Bill H
Posted on 28th November, 2006

Do I(we) really need the expensive power/signal conditioners and surge protector boxes they are trying to sell us (like the $$$$ HDMI cable)? I can understand the need for surge protection, but I can get one of those for under $30 or $20 as I recall.

Mr. Smith
Posted on 28th November, 2006

So what’s the difference between HDMI vs Component? Besides the obvious having to run a seperate audio optical cable. Is there going to be any kind of difference in the visual aspect? Because I’m running component right now from my HD digital cable box to my new Sony 46″ LCD with 1080p and it looks pretty dang good. If I can get a better picture with the HDMI then I’ll spend a few bucks for a better picture. The cable box only sends a 1080i signal anyway, but I’m planning on getting the HD DVD player for the XBOX 360 which should send a 1080p signal and I want to have the best picture quality available. Are Component cables going to be a good cable for 1080p? Thanks mr. HD Guru

Jess R
Posted on 29th November, 2006

You must have read my mind! I’ve been searching for a website that would provide HD, HDMI, DVI, etc. info, before I would make the jump to HD big time, and I finally found it. Thanks to the info I’ve read here, I just made an educated “investment” in some pretty fancy A/V Home Theater stuff with HDTV/HDMI/DVI Digital gadgets, and it all works great thanks to your info, and by the way, I’m using “cheap” HDMI cables, and they work great! keep the good info coming!

tyson
Posted on 29th November, 2006

Is there a difference between a “normal” hdmi cable and a 1.3 hdmi cable. thanks

Pete C
Posted on 29th November, 2006

I am planning on a purchase of a 32″ LCD, HD Panasonic. We live in a small house and space is at a premium. I would like to get a set with a built in DVD. Does the built in DVD help with issues about picture quality over a seperate DVD player?

Also, the installer said I should get a set with a cable slot to eleminate the top of set box. My cable company offers a DVR feature. Would I be able to use that feature with just the cable card? This way of installing seems like it might eliminate some cable issues. Correct? Great website!

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If you had an extermal DVD player with the same performace and connected via HDMI it should look the same.

There are no 32 sets with built in DVRs (they start at 42″). You will need to connect the 32″ to tthe cable companies DVR or the Series 3 HD TiVo.

The HD Guru 

 

 

D
Posted on 29th November, 2006

I disagree with you on the “good or bad” theory. Granted that these types of cables only carry digital signal, it does make a difference on the type of materials used to make that cable, hence the cost associated with it. Reading your posts, leaves me very confused. How do you explain the need for thicker cables for a longer cable run???? It’s all digital, right??? Ahh, that’s right, signal loss. Well guess what, same goes for the short cables, using ” cheap ” cables gives a very good possibility that: a) copper used to make that cable is of poor quality( making it difficult for electrons to pass through that copper) which leads to signal loss, 2) cable is thin = leads to faster signal loss ( think of two pipes of different diameters, the larger the diameter, the more water you can pass through it and more likely you will spill less water when you pour it into that pipe). The shielding that goes with that cable is very important too, remember, every electric device emits some level of a) radiation, and b) radio signal, therefore using a well shielded cable only works to your advantage. Now there are many other reasons why a thicker more expensive cable is better, but to keep it simple I will leave it at this. Don’t think that I have something to gain by sharing this information with you, but I have tested several HDMI cables myself, connecting the same equipment, and there is a difference between the cables. Remember this, most stores let you bring your cables back if you are not happy with them, so you can try the better cable and see if there is a difference.

Ali
Posted on 29th November, 2006

If I have an HD digital cable box connected to the wall through coax (as I think most cable boxes are), do I really help my picture quality by using HDMI to connect the HD digital cable box to my HDTV? In other words, if coax is carrying my HD signal to the cable box, then why can’t I use coax from the cable box to the HDTV? I would think the picture is only going to be as good as the weakest link in the signal chain, and so the HDMI shouldn’t really add any value. I understand why I need HDMI for HD-DVD and Blu-ray players.

jeff zebert
Posted on 29th November, 2006

I just picked up a DVI-D cable for my HDTV. I used to use components. But now the picture is worse. The cable box says DVI-D out and the TV has a DVI/HDCP input. Also if you all digital signal are just 1 and 0`s than how can a HDMI “look and sound” better than components and an optical cable. You even say some where on this site that a coaxial cable sounds better than a optical how can that be if all the cables use 1`s and 0`s they should all work just as good. Last you cant tell me the cheaper cables work as good. It is all in the connection gold plating and thick gauge wire have a better connection and less resistance. A monster cable sounds and looks better than Radio Shack brand. They are more expensive but they are worth it. If you buy it at bestbuy or curiut city you deserve to pay all the extra. It is called Ebay. I got a 120.00 buck optical cable for 18.00 and it sounds better than my old one. Even more you are confusing people a lot of people dont know the difference between digital and analog. So now some might think if i buy cheap multi-channel cables it will sound just as good. look i am not saying you are not a HD guru but better cables work better

Jeff
Posted on 30th November, 2006

HDMI vs. Component: Apparently, I have been unable to get my HDMI to work properly and was advised by the Dish installer that Component cables were just as good…that w/ HD there is very little difference between the two. Plus, he said that the resoulution between the two is so minimal that I would never be able to tell the difference. Is this so? Would it benefit me that much to incur the cost of a technician coming out to check the HDMI problem on my set? Thanks.

Kevin R
Posted on 30th November, 2006

I have to disagree with the cheaper HDMI cable .The $25 one has a much smaller thickness wire in it and will not be near as insullated as say,the gold plated Monster cable, which is twice as thick.
I have both types and can see and hear a differance! Your call but, why settle when it is not the best connection possible.
When it comes to shooting a digital image over a wire…….BIGGER is BETTER !!

Brian P
Posted on 1st December, 2006

I just received my DirecTV HD box, and also just bought my 40″ Sony Bravia LCD TV(KDL-40S2000) with HDMI. I bought the HDMI cable from Wal-Mart, hooked it up to my TV/satellite, and am receiving no picture or sound on that input. A friend of mine told me he had the same problem with his, and he had to go into his TV settings through his HD box, turn off the selection for 480i, and then he received the picture/sound through his HDMI input. Well, I did this and still have nothing.

What in the world is going on? I’m having to use the component hook-ups for the time being.

Norman
Posted on 1st December, 2006

You state that a cable is either good or bad, that the picture quality can not get any better. I can see how this could confuse consumers. Most people would see that the cable is “bad” only if they get no image on the TV. However, according to your statements, even if the image is coming up on the screen if there are any artifacts, discoloring, blurs, or any other video issues then the cable is actually a “bad” cable.

You state that there is no good, better, best in digital cables; that this is not analog audio, but I would argue against this as well.

A cable, whether it is an analog or digital cable is simply a conduit; an electrical conductor. You can pass either a digital or analog signal down any cable (aside from fiber). What makes it digital or analog is the source. Cables are subject to interference and signal loss. What makes one cable better then another is it’s ability to shield interference and carry the signal at full strength from beginning to end. A 10.00 cable from Radio Shack will NOT shield the signal from as much interference as a 200 monster cable.

Let me create an example. Say a hi-fi guy like myself has a high powered amp sitting under my cable box; and tons of other electrical and audio equipment all around the cable box. The HDMI cable has to run amongst all of these other audio and power cables from my cable box to my TV directly above. The 10.00 cable from Radio Shack may not have enough shielding to block out the interference; I will end up with a very nice HDTV screen on my TV; it will look far better then SDTV; but it may have artifacts in it. Then I switch to the 200.00 cable with it’s extra shielding; my screen now has no artifacts, it is perfect. Does this mean the 10.00 cable was bad? Not necessarily. Did the 200.00 cable improve my picture quality? Yes. Say I now take that 10.00 cable in use it in my spare bedroom where I only have a cable box and a single HDTV. The cable works perfect here. So the cable was not bad, but the more expensive cable did offer a better picture quality.

Another side of this is to take a 100′ cable and plug it in; and compare the results with your 6′ cable. A digital signal is more susceptible to signal loss. Does this mean that the TV will simply black out; no, the TV will try to work with what it has. The screen on the 100′ cable may look more washed out; softer colors, etc…

Does every consumer need the 200.00 cables that the retailers push; no. But are the 200.00 cables better then the cheap ones, YES. Will a 200.00 cable improve the picture quality? That depends.

These same issues are seen with Digital PCM audio cables.

——————————————————————————————————————-

I think we are writing past each other. Yes, poor shielding, too thin a gauge of copper, and a myriad of other factors will affect HDMI performance. That said let me restate my point below

Artifacts = Bad Picture=Bad Cable regardless of causation for the given connection.

Freedom from Artifacts= Good Picture= Good Cable

Nuf said.

The HD Guru

Frank
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

To all know-it-all experts, a “cheap” or an expensive cable must get approved and certified under the IEEE committee. Is a Monster cable can be a better choice? I really doubt that. All cables with respect of quality must meet specific requirements needed to be used with their respectable electronic devices no matter what you pay for. In my opinion, it is all about customer preference. For the expensive cables, you are paying for the brand, plated golden connectors, and maybe extra shielding. If you like to get suckered up, be my guest.

Screen Craze
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

I picked up a 10 foot HDMI cable from monoprice.com for $20 and the picture looks great. A retailer tired to sell me a 3 foot monster cable for $150.00. I wish I’d done more research about cables when I bought my surround system cables a few years ago.

Jake
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

I wanted to get an HDMI cable for my Playstation 3. I was going to pick up the sony branded cables that said it was HDMI 1.3 ready. After reading this article, I was wondering if any HDMI cables will work with the new spec. or does it even matter? Does the 1.3 spec only matter with the equipment, or do the cables matter too?

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1.3 requires a higher bit rate/bandwidth. However there are no 1.3 HDTVs available yet, and you need both source and display to be 1.3 to possibly make higher demands on the cable.  Regardless, my good/bad rule applies.  You can learn more  about 1.3 by going to HDMI.org 

The HD Guru 

 

 

David H.
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

Guru, Excellent site full of great information. I hope that maybe on this subject of HDMI cables, you could possibly provide some information on HDMI cable switching boxes out there. I only have one HDMI hookup on the back of my LCD TV and have multiple devices to hook up. Just like cables, I see a huge difference in prices of cable switching boxes out there. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great work.

David

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There are a number of HDMI switchers coming to market now. I have not had an opportunity to test them. All HDMI switchers need quite a bit of electronics to function thanks in part to the HDCP copy restriction aspects of the standard, hence they are pricey. Gefen makes a 2 way switcher available now for $249.

The HD Guru 

 

 

The HD Guru

 

Rod White
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

REVISED (if possible, disregard previous comment).

I have 56″ RCA HDTV (rear proejection HDTV) with Comcast HD Cable Box. The cable box has a DVI connection only (no HDMI). My TV has HDMI/DVI connector. Would it be best to buy a HDMI/DVI cable (HDMI on one end and DVI on other end), OR, should I get a HDMI cable and a separate DVI adapter for it? Or would this be basically the same result? Also, either way, would I still get the true results using this instead of my current monster cable component connections? Thank you very much!

—————————————————————————————

You can use an adapter or a DVI to HDMI cable (which I prefer, its physically more secure, can’t be pulled off) Remember you will need to make sure your display has an  audio input for the HDMI connection (not all HDTVs do) and you’ll need to connect an  RCA audio cable between the cable box and the display and may have to change the setting on the TV for separate audio on HDMI .

Will it make an improvement in the image? Probably, but can’t be certain, depends on the circuit design of source and display. Give it a try.

The HD Guru 

 

 

 

charlie
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

I have a pioneer elite 60 inch rear projection hdtv. The best output is rgb and my sat. receiver only has component and hdmi. Do they make a rgb to hdmi adapter?

—————————————————————————————

You need a transcoder for component to RGB. Key Digital makes one that I use. There is no component or RGB> HDMI transcoder that I am aware of.

The HD Guru 

 

 

Rod White
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

(Will it make an improvement in the image? Probably, but can’t be certain, depends on the circuit design of source and display. Give it a try.)

Thanks, but what I meant, is now everything is connected with monster component cables (audio, video, cable box, dvd/vhs combo player). If I use the HDMI/DVI connection in place of the component connection, will that make any difference. According to your article above, its the highest possible video with HDMI/DVI. Thanks alot for the help and great info!

Josh
Posted on 2nd December, 2006

First of all HDMI does not carry digital audio it is only stero it is however digital video. Also, Monster does make a difference. I can seee a ton of difference. Now maybe I am more of a videophile but if you want HD you obiviously want the best picture quality…why would you sell your self short??? If that is the case have fun with your awful looking Visio tvs.

————————————————————————————————————-

HDMI carries MULTI channel audio and video (go to HDMI.org to see) If you like a certain brand, the HD Guru says “whatever floats your boat.”

The HD Guru

 

Rod White
Posted on 3rd December, 2006

I apologize as this doesnt truly fit this HDMI category, but would really like to know more about my comcast HD cable box menu settings (when cable box is off and you hit menu), the following choices are:

TV Type: 16:9 (correct)
YPbpr Output: 1080I (correct)
4:3 override: 480I, but there also is 480P and Stretch and Off.

Is 480I for the 4:3 override better then the 480P setting for this? I did a little test with each setting and cant seem to notice any difference on some channels (HD broadcast channel, non-HD channel and non-HD broadcast channel). Thank you!

Carl Franklin
Posted on 3rd December, 2006

Hi Guru,
Chuckle, you are… to my mind… 1000% correct. I’ve been working digital electronics… (computers and interfaces)… since back in the tube days… ;) Yes, I also did component lever repair…

As long as the Termination is correct (eliminating reflectance) – the low levels of digital signal current demand… mean little to *no* signal loss. Gold plating… you’re just improving the termination… Eliminating resistance in the connection… For those who’ve disagreed with you – I would just ask… did the TV and other equipment have *gold plated* connections??… ;) If not… errr… ;) Oxidation on the pins/contacts is also a concern… There’s always the perception that ‘if it costs more… it is better…’ – read this as *Bragging Rights* around the water cooler… I prefer to spend my money more *wisely* – and then *toast* at the bar… with the money I’ve saved…

My partner is an audiophile… Vacuum tube amps, etc… He thinks nothing of spending $15,000 on speakers… etc… He came into my home once… we were listening to some music… He look funny, diddled with the controls… and told me… “You’ve got a flat spot in the left speaker at about 300 Hz… He’s got educated ears… Me, I can’t tell the difference… – however, on stuff like that… you’re carrying AMPS of current… so cables size DOES make a difference…

Digital signals – are going from one interface chip to another… the actual current created by the switching – is miniscule… you’re only driving the input to a single gate… The capacitance of the cable – which will affect the switching time… (time it takes for the driver to bleed electrons out of the cable… for a *low/gound*… and to drive them into the cable… for a *high*/positive… – connections & wires act as mini-capacitors – bad solder joints & differing metals in connections can cause this inter-electrode capacitance to increase…) Switching time… means the time it takes for the signal to reach the high-threshold voltage of the receiving chip… or to get down to the low-threshold voltage… Faster changes… means a *cleaner* signal… less noise (good shielding or differential connections are necessary here)… – yielding… in the simplest terms… (to use your terminology…) good or BAD… ;)

Monster Cables… started for speakers… driving High ‘AMP’ speakers… the bigger the cable the better and multi-stranded is optimum… working off Ohm’s Law… E = I * R… Larger cables of the same material have lower resistance… meaning that you can drive more amps/current more easily… So, connecting your stereo… What we use for truly optimum cables are Welder cables… multi-stranded wire… You know… with 300 or 400 amp cabability… ;) Those are truly… *Monster* cables… ;) Chuckle… and while not as attractive as Monster Brand cables… eminently more economical… ;)

In the digital world… with very small current requirements… They’re just places to waste money… In the HD area… since these are bit streams… and high frequency… Well, take a look at the *runs* on a PC board… The only place you’ll see heavier lans… is on the power pins… and that’s to reduce switching noise… ;)

I just moved to component video – on my Pioneer Elite lashup… PRO 700HD, VSX 59txi, DV-O9etc… – unfortunately, HDMI is not an option for me and the PRO 700 seems to only be capable of processing 480i :( ( I bought it in 2000)…

Monster Cables for 6 meters… well, I went to Amazon… and 6 meter component video… for $22 a set… was much more attractive than Monsters and such…

So, for those who wish to have *Bragging Rights* at the water-cooler… There’s no arguing with them… To me… the quality of the equipment… and the results I achieve… is much more important to me… than the amount of money I give to the retailer… ;)

I find the information you put out… cogent… and informative… Wonderful site…

Thank You!… and All the Best!,
Carl…

Jeremy Morris
Posted on 3rd December, 2006

I just bought a sony 46 inch Bravia(kdl 46s2000) I am not all that impressed with the picture. I also purchased a new home theatre system with upconverting
dvd player. My movies are ok, not that impressive.
Got HD service with my cable provider. Some of the HD channels are good some also ok. However, the rest of
the channels are horrible! My old 36 inch tube tv was better. I fell for the “Expensive cables are better gig). I bought an hdmi cable, and component cables. I could tell the difference between my component cables and the hdmi. But I didnt test the hdmi on my regular digital channels. Would the HDMI cable help this? Should
I call sony about the quality of my picture? I took the tv back to best buy for them to check it they said it was fine. Anything would help thanks. JVM

————————————————————————————————–

It could be anumber of factors, overcompression by the cable company, poor signal level, hard to say without seeing it.

Things you can change that might improve the image the image: take it out of vivid mode and put it into movie or cinema and lower the sharpness control, I don’t think there are any DRC settings to play with on the S20000, but other Sonys have them and they need to be adjusted with a standerd def signal to get the best picture. Bottom line, it is possible that the the combination of poor signal quality, Sonys upconversion and how close you sit to the screen combine to make the picture unacceptable to you.

This is not uncommon, the quality of the scalling (upconversion) has a lot to do with how  good or bad SD content looks on a large screen HDTV, I have been preaching about poor scalers for years to the set makers. Regardless, all things equal, native display (using an analog TV) will usually look better.

One last suggestion, have you tried the local digital and analog stations via an antenna, if you do and the picture is better, the problem lies with your cable provider.

The HD Guru 

 

 

 

 

S. Blanchet
Posted on 3rd December, 2006

Hey guys, well i picked up a Phillips 42″ LCD HD screen last week and had Direct TV install the new dish and HD receiver today. The images on the HD channels are breathtaking. The HD receiver included a component (Red/Green/Blue) cable for high def. However i sure HDMI was the way to go to get the best viewing experience. As posted by many of the good folks on here, some retailers sell these cables for as high as $150 depending on lengths. I picked up a cable from a local Tiger Direct Store in Miami and i was very satisfied with it, especially that i only paid $16 for a 6ft cable. Do yourself a favor and don’t give in to pushy sales people at the store. Here is a link: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1214056&CatId=1638

They are even cheaper on eBay, however i wanted instant gratification.

Take care.

B Higgins
Posted on 4th December, 2006

HD GURU,
Love your site, have a question about one of your links,secret satelite, is this for real.
Thanks for your response,
Bob

——————————————————————————————

I don’t know much about it other than what I gathered by going to the website. It appears to be a software package with much of the content aquired from out of the USA. May I suggest doing a Google on them for more information.

The HD Guru

D
Posted on 4th December, 2006

I am following this debate closely, and I stand by my opinion, and what i dont get is why, after spending crazy money for a good TV and a good HD receiver, you’d want to get a crappy cable, and not get the best video/audio possible???????. I am not saying ” go out and buy the most expensive cable there is”, but try a better cable and compare, what do you have to loose? some time to return an item?

S. Blanchet
Posted on 4th December, 2006

D,

I did save for a while and spend a good chunk of change on the TV and i should give a $50-60 cable a try. However if the difference isn’t visible with the naked eye, its going right back. I must say i am very satisfied with the image and sound quality of the $17 cable. Last night’s broncos-sea hawk game was very clear and so where the other HD channels.

I’ll keep you posted.

Steve Mosher
Posted on 4th December, 2006

I agree with the hi end cable fallacy… After shopping a big box store for a new TV and necessary components/cables… I became leary about what I was being told. After reading info like this on HDGuru.com, I probably saved hundreds of dollars.. my tip.. Overstock.com for TVs, cables, audio.. etc.

Rod White
Posted on 4th December, 2006

just ordered a hdmi/dvi cable from monoprice.com. They didnt ahve the 6ft in stock, so got the 11ft for $5.81. The shipping was a tiny bit more then the price of the cable lol but for $12 its worth a shot.

Question – since I currently have my TV/Cable from “input 2″ which is connected via monster component cables with RCA audio (red/white) cables, can I leave those connected and also then just connect the cable box hdmi to tv dvi and then switch my tv to view from “input 2″ to “hdmi” without a problem, or do I need to disconnect the “input 2″ cables from the tv and cable box?
The “input 2″ is only used for tv viewing. I use “input 4″ for dvd player. Thanks.

Manny
Posted on 6th December, 2006

Hello!!

I noticed on some of the articles on this website that you talk about D-interlacing when receiving the signal from cablebox/satellite. MY question is: is it really important to get an hdtv that handles this well,does it really make a difference,would a non-technical person be able to notice the difference? I’m asking cause I noticed that this is the first website that talks about D-interlacing at all. What other not talked about feature if at all, should I look for when buying an hdtv? Does a brand make a difference or is similar to the HDMI concept of paying more unnecessarily? finally if the gap between LCd and Plasma is really small, why are guys like me that watch sports and movies recommended to get a plasma instead of an LCD; is respond time on plasma really that better than on LCd’s? Thanks for your time and insight!!

—————————————————————————————————————-

The scaling and deinterlacing  chips with an HDTV are very important with regard to overall image quality and freedom of nasty looking conversion artifacts. Since most televsions sold today are progressive and most high defintion brodcasts are interlaced 1080i you need a deinterlacer that will properly reconstruct all the detail within the original video or film frames. Almost all scripted series are shot of fim or 24fps video so they also need to properly perform what is called 3:2 pulldown. For a complete explaination see my linked articles in Home Theater magzine.

Motion lag is inherent in 99% of the LCD flat panels sold today. The three models with little or no motion blur are the Hitachi, Philips and JVC listed in my top picks. Read the post. Unless you are in a very bright room, or aren’t  looking for a screen 37″ or larger, Plasma makes a better image today with faster response time. My plasma choices in  the article are the best of the best, they’re really fine looking HDTV displays.

The HD Guru 

NIck
Posted on 6th December, 2006

This Ia all very true. I use the 26 dollar Phillips cable mentioned above to connect my Mac to my 42” LG LCD and the pic is amazing!!!

Dennis Strojny
Posted on 7th December, 2006

I recently purchased a Sony KDL-46XBR3 which has 3 HDMI ports. I plan to hook up a DVD, Cable and Satellite to each of them. I temporally hooked up a HDMI cable to my SAT box to test the set. I got no sound on HD channels but fine sound on the others. I tried a DVD player with HDMI to the same port and the sound came through fine. Any ideas on why the sound is not coming through the SAT box in HD? Video is fine.

Check in your  sat box owner’s manual  for audio options using HDMI output on the sat box. You may be using a wrong setting. Ditto for the Sony manual HDMI input settings.

HD Guru 

Mike
Posted on 7th December, 2006

Let me start out by saying i like your site with the exception of this post!!! It is absolutely ridiculous to tell all of these poor people that a $20.00 wal-mart cable is going to perform the same as a monster cable and for everyone that talks about bigger gauges monster is in a gauge each cable is individually shielded within a single cable therefore allowing minimal interference through out the cable.

I have hooked up numerous cheap HDMI cables from the same source to the same T.V.’s side by side and the monster cable has the better picture EVERYTIME!!! Also if you want to hookup your dvd player and tv with a HDMI cable that has 5gbps (Cheap wal-mart cable) and wait 7 minutes when u switch fro tv to dvd be my guest…

If you’d like to discuss more on this topic ill go into the advantages of having a Nitrogen-injected cable!!!

————————————————————————————————————–

Please direct your comments to all the manufacturers that pack  those “cheap” HDMI cables with their Blu-ray players, HD DVD players, HD TiVos and other HD devices. :)

 The HD Guru

 

 

 

 

beanpoppa
Posted on 8th December, 2006

While I do agree that digital is not analog, and impedance doesn’t lower the quality of the picture in digital transmission as it does in analog transmission, it may still be worth it to buy a higher quality cable (not necessarily more expensive, as the two don’t always go together). While in a 3 foot length, a cheap cable will work fine for more people, if you need a longer length, the greater impedance and increased interference allowed by a cheap cable may be enough to degrade the digital transmission enough to where you will lose enough of the signal.

Another question I have- I know for a compressed digital signal, it’s easy to spot data loss- large macroblocking and pixelation. However, in an uncompressed HDMI signal, how would a low percentage of lost bits manifest itself?

—————————————————————————————————————

Lost bits will produce dropouts (sparkles) or the image will go black.

The HD Guru 

 

 

 

 

GWolfman
Posted on 10th December, 2006

Please read this, I feel it’s important for many of us looking for the best picture. I have a lot I want to say but I’ll try to keep it as short as I can.

I agree with you 100%. Anyone can disagree with me if you want and correct me if I’m wrong, but I think many people are stuck back in the analog days. Let me explain analog and digital as I see it.

ANALOG:

Remember ghosting, shadows, static, snow on your old TV? With digital television, these do not exist unless it was filmed/mastered that way (and who in their right mind would do that). The only quality loss will/should be within the wall of your home. (Don’t argue with me yet, wait till I’m done. My main focus is what is said after this sentence.) Having said that, the only instance where more expensive and/or more clean/pure cables would make a difference is with analog connections. For example, monster cable, compared to “cheap” cable manufacturers, usually uses higher gauge wires and a more pure/clean metal for those wires (the wires that make up the cable internally) to eliminate interference and dissipation/loss of the signal caused by the impurities in the metal that makes up the wires. I think in cases of analog connections (Component, S-Video, RCA/Composite) a more expensive cable “might” make a difference and your picture quality “can” vary depending on the cable used (not guaranteed that it will with brand x cable compared to brand y, but it might). People stuck in analog mode think this way, and why not? Prior to digital television, we’ve been watching TV the same way since its invention in the early 1900’s.

Before a digital video signal is transmitted over an analog cable (Component, S-Video, RCA/Composite) it must be “translated” into an analog signal. To illustrate, it’s like your old 56K dial-up: analog phone lines & a digital computer. I know translated isn’t the technical term, but I’ll use it for those who aren’t technically minded so they can better understand. When the signal reaches the destination, it must then be “retranslated” from analog back into a digital signal to be displayed on the screen. If something happened to the analog signal as it traveled down the cable then the translation back to digital would result in a different signal than what was originally sent since it was translated from an “altered” analog signal.

Let me use a child’s game to illustrate my point. Have you ever played the game “telephone”? The one where you get multiple people sitting in a line or circle (analogous to our analog cable) and one person makes up a short sentence and whispers it into the ear of the person to the left. If the person listening didn’t hear something quite right or missed a word, the speaker cannot repeat the message. The listener must try their best to repeat what was heard, no second chances of hearing the message. They in turn whisper what they think the message is into the ear of the next person and so on until it reaches the last person who then tells everyone aloud the message he or she received. The person who made up the message then tells everyone the original message and everyone gets a laugh because the message is almost always different. You can also compare the messages everyone sent along to find out where the changes occurred. This is analogous to all HDTV video and audio signals: the signals get sent once and the television tries its best to recreate the original or intended signals. If something happened between the source and destination then you’re loosing/altering the intended signal, or picture in this case.

DIGITAL:

First off, I am only talking about cables that are manufactured according to specification. I imagine there are a few cables that are manufactured incorrectly due to automation (something went wrong with that particular cable or design from the start).

What many people forget to think about is the technology used. No matter the cable used (to transport digital signals) and what salesmen say, your picture can’t get any better than the digital technology used. For example: here’s an outrageous salesman claim I read on the internet:

Some guy in Japan (or around there) invented a way to make a CD (which is a digital source) using glass instead of the plastics used to make CDs today. His first glass CD was, I believe, one of Beethoven’s or Bach’s symphonies. His claim of it lasting longer than plastic CDs is true, but it ends there. He claimed that his $1,000 CD would sound better, as if you were there at the concert hall listening to the live symphony.

This is the salesman gig, trying to sell more expensive items that gets ooh’s and aah’s but only for its media “type” (glass vs. plastic, OR in our case, fancy monster cables vs. cheaper cables). The sound quality of the glass CD cannot exceed its technology. Both plastic CDs and glass CDs are both digital and share the same technology: 16-bit PCM at 44.1 kHz. That’s the best it can get. To get better sound you need a new technology such as DVD-Audio: up to 24-bit at 192 kHz. (I know that better analog speakers could sound better, but it’s not the digital technology that’s making the difference.)

The glass CD example is like comparing our fancy HDMI monster cables and cheaper HDMI cables: they share the exact same digital technology. The reason why I keep saying digital is because of my claim above: analog signals are subject to loss/interference. I don’t know the specific voltage levels of the HDMI specification, but digital bits are represented as higher or lower voltage level (can be positive vs. negative voltages). If we use 24K gold wires or cheap copper wires to transport digital bits the picture on the other end will look exactly the same. I admit that, with the cheaper copper wire, the voltage level at the destination might be a tenth (an extreme circumstance) or a hundredth of a percent lower than the gold wire because of the impurities in the copper cable. An example: if the HDMI specifications stated that it must send its digital bits with voltage levels of +1.0 and -1.0 for the 1’s and 0’s, a very cheap copper cable might diminish the signal to voltages of +0.9 and -0.9 by the time it reached the destination. Both of the bits are just as discernable as the intended signal.

If you played the same telephone game by passing a bit (maybe if someone’s hand were open for 1 or closed for 0) instead of analog signal (sounds/words as we speak) then it would be almost guaranteed that there would be no mistake in the transition from start to end. Digital signals are subject to the same problems analog signals are.

Please leave comments!
-GWolfman

peeder
Posted on 11th December, 2006

On one hand, you can’t get better than “perfect” digital transmission. On the other, there’s plenty of opportunities for a cable to be responsible for imperfections. These imperfections won’t necessarily break the connection entirely…they can show up as periodic noise etc.

The digital transfer is designed to minimize that, although I’m not sure if HDMI uses balanced signals as high-end audio cables do. Balanced signals require twice as many strands but can go 1000’s of feet, so if there are length limits that would tip you off. In an unbalanced connection that runs near power lines and transformers etc. you can get interference and this will degreade the signal at some point.

Then there is always the issue of longevity of the cable itself. HDMI looks to be a standard for a long time to come, so you might view the cables as a 10+ year investment. HDMI 1.3 doubles the bandwidth, although I’m not sure if it will require a new cable format to go with that (yes, some cable formulations can carry more bandwidth than others).

So under good conditions, your $10 cable will perform equally well to your $100 cable, at least in its youth. In an electrically noisy environment, or having to deal with wear and tear, or even over a long cable run (if the format is indeed unbalanced), your $100 cable may indeed pay off some of its investment in a picture with less interference noise and dropouts.

There’s also the issue of connectors being the same metal because reactions can tarnish the connectors in humid environments if they aren’t the same metal. So nickel should go with nickel and gold with gold. If your device has nickel connectors, gold won’t be as good! (and the cable is less valuable than the device, one would guess…) Of course you can clean or replace your connectors should that become a problem after many humid years.

But overall, no, you can’t get more vivid color! or something out of a digital cable. In double-blind testing most people will express a sharp preference for one out of two completely identical things, so ignore most of these stupid subjective assessments. In the lab, the cables will test as “working” or “not” unless stress tested, and most guys in white coats just shake their head at people who stress such products. In real life, stress happens…

peeder
Posted on 11th December, 2006

Yeah, Googling reveals HDMI’s an unbalanced consumer format (compared to the SDI professional balanced format), much like S/PDIF is to AES/EBU digital. So yeah, interference problems will occur in certain (somewhat common) situations. However, if the format was balanced, there’s no way the cables get down to $10 (just too many strands) and the connectors are also more expensive (have to “encode” and “decode” on both ends).

If you do experience interference with HDMI equipment, try moving the cable around and see if that does something. Antennas are made from cable, and your cable will pick up RF (radio frequency noise). Broadcast antennas are made from coiled powered cable…so don’t coil your power cables all neat-like (you’ll broadcast my least favorite radio station, which plays 60-cycle hum all day long)!

Normally, the voltage differential in digital formats is great enough to overcome these problems, but there are so many tradeoffs at work here I’d be surprised if the format is effectively immune to them.

Now the $100 cable is probably only going to get you 10% or so better resistance to noise…it’s the format that’s the problem, this is cheap consumer crap. But that 10% may cover a fair amount of gray area in practice.

Jon
Posted on 12th December, 2006

I found a new cable company off of Fatwallet.com and they have really cool HDMI cables. They are doing a cable promotion for $6 shipped and their other cables are cheap too. Check them out.
Cable promotion: http://www.tendonusa.com/afreecable
Store: http://www.tendonusa.com/shop/home.php

Charlie
Posted on 18th December, 2006

I’d like to thank Hdguru, Gwolfman, and Peeder for their semi technical explanations on the differences between analog and digital cabling.

if, like me, anyone is interested in researching this further, USE YOUR GOOGLE!!!

as for all you “bragging rights” types, get serious! learn as much as you can about the technologies you are using, then and only then will you be able to make informed decisions, instead of relying on sales hype designed to separate you from your money.

spottswood
Posted on 19th December, 2006

sir: u hve the best colmn about hdtv that i hve seen todate thanx much spottswood

Joe Foe form Buffalo
Posted on 24th December, 2006

Great website!!
I’m wondering if anyone else in from this website is having a problem with Time Warner with allowing the HDMI connection to work on the 8300hd DVR’s in certain area’s they service or if this website can help make it work? These websites show samples others are and are not happy and what may help to make it work.
http://tinyurl.com/yc4foc

http://tinyurl.com/yh789q

Functional HDMI or DVI on HD cableboxes is an FCC regulation. If your provider does not comply, the HD Guru suggests filing a complaint with the FCC. Instructions for filing and  on-line complaint can be found at fcc.gov website .

The HD Guru 

Joe Foe form Buffalo
Posted on 24th December, 2006

All most forgot one more good website for a example

http://tinyurl.com/gdupo

Geo.
Posted on 27th December, 2006

I can’t find any comments on cable cards on your fine web site. Are you planning to discuss this?
I have a samsung 50″ plasma from 2005 and comcast cable. I can not use the motorola cable card comcast furnishes; they all blame each other for not working. Any one else had a problem?-and better yet, a solution. Geo.

There are some exciting things happening with CableCARD right now and the HD Guru has been waiting for all the dust to settle before posting his report. Let me state one item (it is a sore point with the HD Guru).

The Cable providers are required to supply working CableCARDs. All CableCARD HDTVs have been certified to work properly by CableLabs a testing company owned by the a group of cable providers. Don’t fall for you cable companies excuses. Call your cable provider, ask for a  manager and tell him/her their CableCARD doesn’t work and they should send over to your home a competent technician to make it work with your TV. If they tell you they won’t, please tell your provider (Comcast in this case) that you are filing a complaint with the Federal Communications Commission for its violation FCC CableCARD regulations. Next, go to FCC.gov website and file the complaint.

The HD Guru has been assured by FCC staff, that the Federal Communications Commission takes these complaints very seriously and will respond within 60 days. The FCC also is now requiring the cable providers to make periodic reports to the commission all CableCARD issues including complaints.

In the HD Guru’s opinion,  a number cable providers have been getting away with non-complience of the CableCARD regulations for too long.  If your provider still will not supply a properly functional CableCARD, file the FCC complaint. I am quite confident you will get satisfactory resolution by taking these actions.
The HD Guru 

 

etype2
Posted on 30th December, 2006

Tyson: Many consumers have been experiencing problems with HDMI cables “not communicating” properly with thier equipment. The new 1.3 format is designed to address those issues as well as to improve color and sound. TV manufactures are set to introduce the new format in 2007. You will probably here more about this at CES (consumer electronic show) in January. I know,one more thing to confuse us all. With the hopefull kind permission of HD Guru,take a look at this…

With the launch of HDMI version 1.3, HDMI continues to increase its overall functionality to meet the needs of the High-Definition marketplace.
HDMI 1.3 will include the following new features:

Higher speed: HDMI 1.3 increases its single-link bandwidth from 165MHz (4.95 gigabits per second) to 340 MHz (10.2 Gbps) to support the demands of future high definition display devices, such as higher resolutions, Deep Color and high frame rates. In addition, built into the HDMI 1.3 specification is the technical foundation that will let future versions of HDMI reach significantly higher speeds.

Deep Color: HDMI 1.3 supports 30-bit, 36-bit and 48-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 24-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification.

Lets HDTVs and other displays go from million of colors to billions of colors.
Eliminates on-screen color banding, for smooth tonal transitions and subtle gradations between colors.
Enables increased contrast ratio
Can represent many times more shades of gray between black and white
At 30-bit pixel depth, a four times improvement would be the minimum, and the typical improvement would be eight times or more.
Broader color space: HDMI 1.3 removes all limits on color selection

Next-generation “xvYCC” color space supports 1.8 times as many colors as existing HDTV signals
Lets HDTVs display colors more accurately
Enables displays with natural, vivid colors
New mini connector: With small portable devices such as HD camcorders and still cameras demanding seamless connectivity to HDTVs, HDMI 1.3 offers a new, smaller form factor connector option.

Lip Sync: Because consumer electronics devices are using increasingly complex digital signal processing to enhance the clarity and detail of the content, synchronization of video and audio in user devices has become a greater challenge and could potentially require complex end-user adjustments. HDMI 1.3 incorporates an automatic video/audio synching capability that allows devices to perform this synchronization automatically with total accuracy.

New lossless audio formats: In addition to HDMI’s current ability to support high-bandwidth uncompressed digital audio and all currently-available compressed formats (such as Dolby Digital and DTS), HDMI 1.3 adds additional support for new, lossless compressed digital audio formats Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD.

Related Links

Download the 1.3 specification

1.3 Press Release

1.3 FAQ

View new Mini Connector

Kyle
Posted on 30th December, 2006

Are you guys listening to yourselves?? Who is to say that a $200 cable is better than a $30 cable?I cannot believe that some of you guys believe that a cable is better because you pay more for it.

Sure MONSTER CABLE, the most advertised and popular bad a** cable company out there is more expensive because they have been blown up as the most popular bad a** company out there.

Folks, just because a TV, Car, Boat, and in this case wire is more expensive doesn’t make it better. It becomes an ego thing when you say “Well I purchased a 5K TV and there is no way in hell I am putting a $9 cable on it”. Its just plain ignorant.

Jeremy
Posted on 30th December, 2006

A fantastic website for ALL electronic purchases – specifically computer hardware – but the cable selection & prices are excellent.

http://www.newegg.com

Bob McMillan
Posted on 31st December, 2006

Great site. Keep it up. you should also get into politics. The country needs you to debunk Congress, then the WH, and then the courts.

Bill Malthouse
Posted on 31st December, 2006

Another version of the cable rip off is in HDMI-DVI adapters or (short) cable adapters. Brilliant salesmen at Jerkit City tried to sell me a $75, 2 ft. cable to go from my DVD’s HDMI output to the TV’s DVI! I walked across the parking lot to a “used computer” store and bought an HDMI-DVI adapter (plug style) for $4.95. Of course it worked! (Yes, I had to run some RCA audio cables to the TV for sound, but I would have had to do that for the $75 adapter too!) Shades of the very early days of the PC where you could get ripped off paying $50 for a $6.95 printer cable!

Rick G
Posted on 2nd January, 2007

HDMI Cable nuts: I spent good money to buy 46″Sony XBR3 LCD and then bought 3 different HDMI cables to test. Geffen (more than $150), Monster ($90+) and then CHEAP Phillips (less than $25) and the viewed results showing a group of 6 adults was: NO Difference in picture, resolution, sound, on and on yada yada yada. The GURU is right. Save your money or blow it if it makes you feel better!

Bone Crusher
Posted on 4th January, 2007

I agree with the HD Guru concerning HDMI and think the same applies to Audio Fiber Optical Cable. I needed Optical Cables and was amazed at the pricing. BTW, the best priced I found at B&M stores were Xbox 360’s Optical Cables, 9′ manufactrer be either MadCatz or Game Shark for less than $10.

Jason
Posted on 18th January, 2007

I agree 100% about the cheaper HDMI cable. I use two of the Philips models from Walmart. One for my HD Cable box, and one for my upconvert DVD player with a Panasonic plasma and they both work flawlessly. I paid about $30 each for them compared to 65+ at electronics stores.

Jason
Posted on 18th January, 2007

I just recently had my Zenith ED 42 plasma hooked up to Dish Network HD. The installer gave me a HDMI cable with an adapter to DVI for FREE. Thats right, all I had to do was ask for it.

don
Posted on 18th January, 2007

I have a sharp LC-37D90U. The tv does not recongize single of the cable box and the cable hooked up independently.It will not play the dvd player also. only happens when turning it on.The tv has to be un pluged and pluged back in to work.please help

The TV appears to be defective. Contact the dealer or Sharp for repair.

The HD Guru

Curt
Posted on 2nd February, 2007

I have a Panasonic plasma TH-42px6u and a philips home theather/dvd. Both have HDMI. Everything looks and sounds good when I play a dvd. The problem I have is when I try to play my tv sound through the surround sound it will not work. I have to attach red/white audio cables from the tv to the surround sound(this is mentioned in the manual). Now I am back up to 3 cables. I can get the same picture and sound with the red/blue/green cable. Any benefit to using HDMI? Why does the Audio seem to travel only one way in this case(dvd sound plays through the tv but tv sound does not play through surround without adding extra cables)?

You do not mention the signal source. I will assume it is the built in HD tuner in the plasma. You should be connecting a digital audio cable from the digital audio output on the TV to the surround sound philips home theater audio system not the analog connecton. Its in the Panasoic owner’s manual.

The HD Guru 

Chris
Posted on 4th February, 2007

Just a quick note on the interesting read. Just make sure to change “your” to “you’re” in the first sentence and it makes me feel like you know what you’re talking about (which I do already).

Oops. Thanks for pointing it out. 

The HD Guru 

Jay
Posted on 19th February, 2007

To the guy that has S-video hook-up instead of HDMI fix it now. Directv people are morons. The HDMI cable can not support 480i so you have to change the Res on the Box right on the front you and change the Res to 480p or higher. Then go into setting dor the HDDVR and uncheck the 480i al together.

kEVIN
Posted on 14th April, 2007

Although I agree most parts of a cable won’t make one iota of a difference, what the wire is made of can. and if you spending top dollard for your components it make sense to get the best signal you can.

Schuff
Posted on 22nd April, 2007

Great article on HDMI cables. My question is, I want to be able to watch dvd’s without *always* having to turn on my audio receiver for surround sound (for example Thomas the Train). I would rather just use the tv speakers instead. Well I though I could HDMI from the DVD player TO the Tv, then Optical Audio from the TV TO the Audio Receiver.

My problem is I have to change the setting on the dvd player to PCM to output it to the tv and then the receiver only picks it up in sterio “Linear PCM” instead of 5 channel Dolby Digital. So is it not possible to use the TV as a second chain in the digital audio stream? I already saw where the Guru said the HDMI cable carries multichannel, but then what am I missing thats only accepting stereo as it passed through the tv?

As I have it now I have digital audio from the dvd straight to receiver, and digital audio from the cable box straight to the receiver. As you can see it would be nice just to use HDMI on both components straight to the TV, and then digital audio out from TV to receiver. I then wouldn’t have to change inputs on the receiver to match what I am watching, and I also could watch dvd’s without a receiver at all. I know this may not get answered, worth a shot. =/

Thanks,
Schuff

Chad G
Posted on 27th April, 2007

I am the assistant manager of a small town Radio Shack, and even though I sell Monster Cables and the Radio Shack brand of HDMI cables, I agree to the fullest extent. Our cost for these cables are less than half of what we are selling them for. I always try to point my customers in the direction of the cheaper cables; yet you always have those “yuppies” that think the more you spend the better. I’ll tell you from many years of experience in the consumer electronics buisness, the most expensive is not always the best, as a matter of fact, very rarely is that a true statement. Our In-Store brand is just as good as any MONSTER CABLE out there. Thanks for finally letting people know this.

Beau
Posted on 29th April, 2007

What would we do without you?
Keep up the reviews on new products.

Andy B
Posted on 22nd August, 2007

Hello everyone.

HDMI is a new venture for me having stuck with analogue up to now. I have over the years played with many cables in my hifi, but have kept this witin reason and have never spent really silly money in fact, ihave often bought second hand. have i noticed differences, often yes, better, well Only I can say that as you would have a different opinion depending on what you like. I see HDMI to be less critical in its demands for quality of cable, however i still ensured i had prchased a cable of decent construction and with effective shielding. Did it costs a fortune, no, nor was it dirt cheap either. I am happy that I have bought a decent cable it works very well and I am sure it will have a long service life. I am not sure that the dirt cheap cable would do the same and give peace of mind, also I am sure, that spending 20 times as much would not give 20 times more picture quality or last any longer.

But I am happy with what I have bought and may be that is all that matters at the end of the day…………..

I have considered computer networks as a source of reasoning in this debate,

My office network uses very high quality heavily shielded cable, for very good reason, this would not be needed in my home and a waste of money. Why would I need different cables in these applications if they are doing the same job after all they are sending only ‘1′ and ‘0′ too…….

mark
Posted on 23rd August, 2007

I just bought a samsung LN-T4061F LCD. I have it hooked up to an HD DVR cable box. I also have it hooked up to a Toshiba HD-A20 HD DVD player. Both the cable box and dvd player are connected to my LCD via Monster Cable Ultra 1000 HDMI (1.3 and 1080p true signal).

There is no way that a $10 cable will perform better than a $130 cable. NO WAY! Do your research and look at how the cables are constructed.
Already answered. Thanks for your feedback. Everyones opinion is important.

The HD Guru 

Frost
Posted on 18th November, 2007

An untutored question: If I play a 1080p res. BlueRay disk on a Sony 32″ LCD rated at 720p, how compromised would the image be on screen? What are the consequences, or should I be restricted to 720p sources?

bowtrain
Posted on 20th May, 2008

I realize that this article and comments post has been dormant for some time, but I have to chime in. Although I have not read every response here, I have seen enough to get the idea that people are only looking for certain benefits with their cables. I am a long time audio enthusiast, and can verify without a doubt, that cables most certainly do make a difference. Maybe video cables are different. Maybe most people aren’t as concerned about getting the absolute last drop of performance for their expensive electronics. I do know that even digital audio cables do not all sound the same. People that state otherwise may not have the equipment to fully realize this fact. Maybe they are not as discriminating as they think they are. For me, it took some years in the audio hobby to fully hear all of the different aspects of a complete sound experience as well as the sometimes subtle differences between products. Without having a more developed taste, it is hard to realize the capability of the items that we search long and hard to purchase.

As far as the HDMI cables are concerned, I am sure that there are differences in sound reproduction even if the naked eye cannot differentiate picture differences. Also, are there not anomolies in lower quality cables in reference to length as well (over 3 meters or so)? This has kind of reminded me of where the doubters of audio cable benefits first started. The true issue is knowing which cables are worth the extra money and which ones are merely mark up products.

Luke
Posted on 10th September, 2008

I just received a new HD cable box from Time Warner and I changed from component cables to HDMI. I purchased a 65′ HDMI cable with a repeater to get from my Plasma to my media room where the Cable box is located. Unfortunately, none of my HD channels work now, but all regular channels do. What could be the problem?

AJ BIGIT
Posted on 7th November, 2008

HDMI is great for 1080P only. But I
notice no change with video
images when I use my Blu-Ray to
upconvert and utilize dubbing
cables in lieu of component cables.
How do the mfg’s of component cables
instruct those inflicted with “color blindness” to make the connection?

Jld
Posted on 19th December, 2008

We just bought a Blue Ray DVD player and the HDMI cable but our television (Mitsubishi HD 1080 rear projection big screen) does not have a hookup. Is there some type of adapter we can buy?

Sharon
Posted on 7th June, 2009

I just got my HDTV and wanted to use it as my monitor at times for music videos or movies. My graphics card (GeForce GTX 295) has a HDMI slot, so we bought a 35foot HDMI to HDMI Cable and connected it from my computer to my HDTV. After a few size screen adjustments, my HDTV was now acting as my monitor. However, when we wanted to play a music video full screen thru iTunes or YouTube, the screen freezes but the music plays. What can I do to fix this?

SpyMemork
Posted on 9th September, 2009

Какая занимательная фраза

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