Sony’s 46†KDL-46XBR4 LCDTV, one of 2007’s most eagerly awaited HDTVs, has finally arrived. It is Sony’s first 120Hz LCDTV, with “Full HD†1920 x 1080 resolution. Sony used to make early review samples available to the press, but lately the company has been slow to release hot products to reviewers. The HD Guru™ obtained his test sample thanks to a local retailer’s generosity. The KDL-46XBR4 retails for $3599.99.
The 1080p XBR4 series (40â€Â, 46†and 52â€Â) represents the top-of the line in Sony’s vast array of LCD flat panel high definition televisions. The KDL-46XBR4 employs the “SPVA†(super patterned vertical alignment) LCD panel sourced through its partnership with Samsung. This technology claims both higher contrast and better viewing angles than delivered by any competing LCD panels.
Other features of the KDL-46XBR4 include a “floating†glass design (clear glass extending past the bezel), 10-bit LCD panel (to reduce dithering artifacts by creating more gradations between black and white), Motionflow™ 120Hz “full HD frame rate capability,†which creates interpolated intermediate frames between real frames of image information to reduce LCD “motion blur†(most LCDTVs are 60Hz, more on this later). Its WCG (Wide Color Gamut) CCFL (cold cathode fluorescent lamps) produces more color space than normal fluorescent (backlight) lamps used in many other LCDs, but less than the standard definition NTSC parameters.
While Sony does not provide numbers, Samsung does (remember: they co-own the LCD panel factory), indicating color space at 92% of the NTSC standard as opposed to the 72% reported by most other manufacturers using “regular†CCFLs. The KDL-46XBR4 also has x.v. Color™ technology for reproducing more color with future Playstation 3 games and possibly future HD DVDs and Blu-ray discs, but ultimately its ability to reproduce a fuller spectrum of color is restricted to the WCG CCFL’s limited capabilities.
In order to evaluate the Sony’s performance the HD Guru™ utilized a number of signals, including a new test for motion resolution. Let’s begin with deinterlacing performance.
All 1080i HD broadcasts (CBS, NBC, CW, HBO, Showtime, Discovery HD, HD Net and most of the other HD Networks) must be properly “deinterlaced†(with motion compensation) to 1080p on a frame-by-frame basis in order to properly retain all 1080 lines of resolution on a display. Some 1080p HDTVs “deinterlace†by discarding every other frame, meaning you will see just 50% of the resolution.
I quickly discovered that this Sony does not properly deinterlace 1080i in the factory default “Vivid†picture setting. In fact, it also drops 50% resolution in the “Standard†picture mode as well. However, the set does properly deinterlace the 1080i signal and does deliver all frames, and thus does display the full vertical resolution, in either “Custom†or “Cinema†picture mode!
Why did Sony choose to make the default mode one that fails to properly deinterlace incoming 1080i signals? I haven’t the faintest idea, especially since, according to a number of set makers, the majority of HDTV buyers leave the user settings in the factory default!
If you pick up just one tip from this website, it should be to change your HDTV out of its “showroom default†setting (which may be called “Dynamic†or some other variation) as soon as it is unpacked and connected. The preferred picture setting on most brands will be called “Cinema,†or “Custom,†or “Pro,†or some variation of those. Check your owner’s manual for the choices.
When you select whatever the “advanced†setting is called, it will always deliver a better image under home lighting conditions than the factory default setting, which is intended only for brightly (over)lit dealer showrooms.
The 3:2 cadence test determines if the set’s video processor properly identifies film-based 24fps content and converts it to 60fps (in this and in most 120Hz sets the processor then interpolates and creates an intermediary frame to produce double the frame rate).
This Sony, like most of the 75 2007 models the HD Guru™ tested this year, failed the 3:2 cadence test. Failure results in degraded resolution and/or visible artifacts. Unlike the de-interlace test, where switching picture modes affected the result, the KDL-46XBR4 failed to identify and convert 24fps film-based signal in all picture modes. Silicon Optix’s HQV HD test disc (Blu-ray edition) provided both 3:2 cadence and 1080i de-interlace tests).
Measuring a set’s bandwidth determines its ability to pass the HDTV video signal’s full frequency range. If it is attenuated (reduced), you will not see the finest horizontal resolution detail, or the full 1920 pixels, despite the display’s claimed full resolution. The KDL-46XBR4 passed the entire one pixel on/off signal using a Sencore 403 signal generator. To view every pixel as it is generated, requires changing the user menu “Screen†setting to “Full Pixel†from the “Normal†factory default that produces “overscan†and cuts off around 5% of the total image.
Though the “Normal†factory default only outputs around 1830 out of 1920 pixels, it is set that way to mask artifacts present in HDTV broadcast signals that sometimes produces distracting lines and noise that may otherwise appear at the sides, or top of the screen. However, switching to “Full Pixel†mode is necessary to get full pixel resolution from HD DVD and Blu-ray signals. Just remember to switch back when watching broadcast HDTV.
The latest tests in the HDTV Guru’s arsenal, static and motion resolution measurements are derived from a new 1080i Blu-ray test disc called “FPD Benchmark Software for (the) Professional.†A frame called a “Monoscope Test,†consisting of four groupings of four non-parallel black lines arrayed to form a wedge-shaped patterns (see photo below) that appear at the top, sides and bottom of a center square. To test resolution, you look at the bottom wedge. There are both stationary and moving versions of the test.
The stationary test is for “static†resolution, determined by the point where the lines are no longer seen as separate, and begin to blur together. Numbers adjacent to the wedges help make what is a subjective test, somewhat easier to determine and more reliable. The moving “Monoscope Test†pattern provides the means to measure motion resolution.
As with the de-interlacing test, static and moving resolution results were picture mode dependent. “Custom†and “Cinema†modes produced 1080 “lines†of static resolution and 600 lines of motion resolution. “Standard†mode produced1080/580 static/motion and “Vivid,†the factory default produced a disappointing, but not surprising 880/450 static/motion. This is yet another reason to get this set out of the “Vivid†mode.
The KDL-46XBR4’s maximum 600-line motion resolution performance tied that of a recently tested Sharp 120Hz LCD panel, making these two the highest measuring motion resolution LCD panels to date. Yet both fall short when compared to the best-measured plasma performance (880 lines) or LCOS microdisplay (780 lines).
Color bar observations indicated that primary and secondary colors were rendered quite realistically, with the exception of red, which tended toward an orange-red, possibly the result of a WCG-CCFL backlight limitation.
The HD Guru™ believes there are more user accessible picture controls and settings within this TV than in any other HDTV he’s tested. Too much of a good thing results in a ridiculous and confusing situation whereby some controls don’t appear to produce any visible change, and exactly what they are supposed to do is left unclear because the owner’s manual’s documentation of many of these so-called “features†is so vaguely written, they are rendered meaningless. For instance: here’s a short quote regarding the “Motion Enhancer†feature:
“Activates MotionFlow to enhance the smoothness of picture movement and reduce blur.
High Provides smoother picture movement such as for film based content.
Standard Provides smooth picture movement. Use this for standard use
Off Use this setting when High and Standard setting results in noise.
Depending on the video, you may not see the effect visually, even if you changed the setting.â€Â
They got the last part right. I saw no difference visually, mentally, physically or any other way. Ditto for the MPEG noise reduction feature.
After a careful adjustment of the user controls, the HD Guru™ evaluated picture performance using satellite HD and Blu-ray disc content (sorry no SD sources were available, though Sony’s DRC in the past has done a reasonable job of upconverting standard def content and the KDL-46XBR4 uses the latest version).
Bottom line, this Sony, properly adjusted, produced the best LCD flat panel HD image the HD Guru™ has seen to date. A number of factors are responsible. This panel creates some of the deepest blacks and the best contrast ratio seen on an LCD display. The Samsung/Sony SPVA LCD panel it uses, is, in the HD Guru™’s opinion, is the best LCD panel in the industry. Within the LCD category, the HD Guru™ awards the KDL-46XBR4 ♥♥♥♥.
However, compared to other flat panel HDTVs, regardless of technology, the rating drops down to ♥♥♥, simply because the best plasma TVs produce better images, with better reds, wider viewing angles, and significantly better motion detail and usually for less money!
So why are consumers passing on better performing plasma TVs and spending more money (per inch screen size) for poorer performing large screen LCDs? Because they produce brighter pictures and consumers mistakenly believe “brighter is better.†However, unless one lives in a retail showroom or has set up an ultra-bright, high ambient light viewing environment that mimics a showroom, the HD Guru™ cannot understand why anyone would pay more to buy a top-rated LCD set when a less expensive top-rated plasma set will outperform it while still providing up to three times more light output than necessary in any typical home environment.
Copyright ©2007 Gary Merson/HD Guru™. All rights reserved. The content and photos within may not be distributed electronically or copied mechanically without specific written permission.
Bought my 40 ” XBR4 in Dec. 2007. After approx.
one and a half years we started getting ghosting images on the right side when cold then after 20 to thirty minutes it would go away, now its doing all the time. What’ s going on with this $2,500 TV. I am very disappointed. Does anyone have any idea what what causes this and how much it would cost to fix? I have spent thousands of dollars on Sony products over the 5 years with my last purchase on an SLT A55 sony SLR. This may be the last Sony I will purchase if this turns out to be a $2,500 paper weight.
KDL-46XBR4 died after 15 months – 3 months beyond warranty. It costs more to repair than to replace. LCD panel color/power is dark and motion is gone on right 2/3 of display. Chatting with the service tech I learned that 50% of his calls are for bad panels. Don’t buy a Sony XBR unless you also pony up for an extended warranty to cover their shoddy workmanship!!
Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray and 46XBR2. Whats the best setting to view blue rays.
I have a KDL-46W3000 just notice a red line on the right side of the screen 4 or 5 in. from the side running top to bottom.My tv is 45 days out of warrenty. Is there any ajustment that I can do to avoid a service charge? Also does it hurt the tv to run in vivid mode I like the brightness?
Thanks for your review. It was very fair and you did a professional job.
friends,
I wonder if this loss of resolution in default mode is the case with all Sony Bravia TVs?
Because I have a W3000.
I recently bought a Sony KDL-46XBR4. Due to a bright room (5 Windows), we like the Vivid setting. However, I set the picture to Custom and Cinema after reading your review, but the picture looks dull or washed out. Can you offer some settings that would brighten the picture in Custom or Cinema so we get a simular picture to Vivid, and get the benefit of the full resolution? Thanks
My experience with Sony LCD’s has not been good.
REcently upgraded to a Samsung from my old LG 32 inch. Much better performance
I just purchased a Sony 40″ XBR4 LCD with 120 Hz @ Best Buy and imported into my home in Mexico last week, also purchased the Samsung DUO BD-UP5000 (coz I was left with a big library of HD-DVD movies), I already own in my house a Samsung 42″ Plasma 1080i, a Mitsubishi 73″ DLP 1080p (in my custom made home theater) and 2 other LCD’s 20″ as well as old 21″ CRT in my kitchen, ……. I have to say of all of my tv’s, the XBR4 is by far the best tv I have ever owned, I hanged it on my bedroom wall, my prior bedroom tv was also an XBR but was CRT and I had owned it for 14 years. The video quality from either HD-DVD or Blu-ray content is AWSOME, BEUTIFUL, AMAZING, on the other hand, the XBR’s ability to upconvert 480p content to near HD is AMAZING, see, in Mexico we have no aray of HD channles to choose from, we have at most 3 over the air channels, but when using cable the most we can get is possibly 480p and the XBR does a marvelous job upconverting the signal to near HD, …. on the XBR defence Vs Plasma, I would have to say that the BIGGEST ADVANTAGE Vs other Plasmas would have to be the SOUND, audio from this particular TV is extreemly good, the other day I was watching a movie and my wife thought the sound was coming out of my custom made home theater where I have an Onkyo receiver with 7.1 channels feeding 7 speakers + the subwoofer, but I was in my bedroom with my XBR, …. sound is by far better than any other TV I currently have and that I have seen out in the market, …. so future LCD buyers, look for XBR’s, they give EXCEPTIONAL Audio and Excellent Video quality
I have owned a 52Xbr5 for one week. I have the same problem as Jim (random clicks and pops from my TV). Actually these clicks are most noticeable when turning my set on and off. But I also hear the occasional click while watching my TV (could be once an hour could be less in frequency) but the clicks are noticeable.
Has the cause been determined? Is it fixable?
Thanks for your response(s).
ToLawyer
I bought a 46XBR4 last September. It’s in a finished basement and doesn’t get used much. It’s hooked to Charter Cable thru their DVR. There is infrequent random audio popping and much more frequent random audio outage as well as picture breakup. I know the audio outage and picture breakup are cable problems because we get them with smaller regular CRT TV’s in the house. My concern is the occasional random popping noise, which could also be called a sharp crack. What is the likely source of the popping noise?
rosicky7, since the HD Guru hasn’t reponded to your post, I can only say that when you are watching images from a Sony S300 Blu-ray player or satellite HD signals, try having your TV image set to Vivid. I’ve watched certain Blu-ray discs and it is almost 3D-like in the extra depth and vibrancy. I’ve watched some where I feel like I am right there watching it being filmed, it is that amazing!
HD Guru, \
Got a question for you
just bought a new sony bravia xbr4 from sears. They dropped the price to 1899.00 (over 600.00 price drop could’t resist it). They say sony discontinue the xbr4 and is moving ahead with the xbr5 which is 500.00 dollars more for a black piano finish. Other than that, the internal workings are the same can’t see paying 500.00 more for a black shining piano finish. Love the sony I think it is great.
However, I have notice that three bad pixels have shown up – not to bad – two in corner one just off center. Bothers me when I’m on the computer mostly. Annoying more than anything. Sears said they would take it back for exchange no problem as long as it is within the 30 days which it is I bought it on feb 6. Thinking of returning it but don’t like the hassel of taking it all down off the wall mount etc. I tried to push on the dead pixels to revive them – this worked for me on my laptop and fixed the problem. However, no luck with the sony xbr4 they are still there.
Do you know of anything else I can try to fix the 3 dead pixels problem? Or should I just return it for another one? Time is ticking away. Thanks in advance.
John Monaco
Lmonaco@nycap.rr.com
Hi Gary.
Can you tell me how to obtain this FPD Benchmark disc?
Hey! I just got a KDL-46XBR4 yesterday, haven’t really had a chance to mess with the settings too much. I use my PS3 as a DVD/Blu-ray Player, are there any settings besides the “Motion Enhancer” to High settings that I need to change to get the full 120Hz Motionflow effect on Blu-ray? This is my first LCD TV and I want to try to get the most out of it! Also, when I play games on the PS3, does it really matter if I change the settings to “game” (I think thats what its called) I noticed that it just changed the brightness of the picture. Thank you!
anybody getting a thin green bar on the right side of the screen in full pixel mode i have a kdl-40xbr4 anyone have any answers thanks
I want to buy a full 1080p set. I read several reviews on Sony’s 52 xbr5 and 46 xbr4. As usual, Sony gets very good reviews. The problem is that they all say that the sets have BELOW average upconversion. One review alludes to this being resolved by a professional who know hao to calibrate it and set it up properly. Is this true?!
I upgrade from a 42″ panny plasma to a 52″ xbr4. The reason I chose LCD over plasma this time around is because my 42″ plasma exhibited plasma buzz which could not be remedied. It was really noticeable during scenes with little or no sound and was really annoying. I sit about 8 feet away from the screen. The TV sits about 1 foot away from the wall.
When I was at the showroom looking at 50″ TV’s, I listened to all the plasma’s (panasonic, hitachi, Pioneer, and Toshiba) and they all had the plasma buzz at varying levels… probably not as loud as the one I had, but still, under ambient conditions, would be noticeable at 8 feet distance. I’ve also found that the plasma’s run hotter than the equiv. sized lcd. I put my hand over the top vents and I can really feel the heat. That’s not to say that the LCD doesn’t heat up, it does, but not as much as plasmas. My 42″ panny does a good job as a secondary heater for my room as well.
I just wanted to point out that for those of us who don’t scrutinize every frame displayed on the screen for accuracy and consistency, there is really no huge difference in what you see on an LCD vs. what is shown on a plasma. Sure, if you compare side-by-side the very best properly calibrated plasma vs. the very best properly calibrated LCD and you stared at the screen long enough, you would notice differences, but they are not showstoppers.
For these reasons, I chose LCD.
Mike, personally I would save the $300. There are some simple things you can do yourself that will likely yield the same or better results than what BB or CC could do.
First, as HDGuru noted in his initial review I’d make your picture setting changes in either the Cinema or Custom mode, so flip to one of these before doing anything. [Also, keep in mind you'll need to change your new settings for each input you use e.g. HDMI 1, Component 1, etc.]
Second, find a DVD that has a THX video optimizer. All of the recent Disney-Pixar movies (e.g. Cars) have one under Setup in the disc’s main menu. I think all THX-certified DVD’s have the optimizer. This has a really simple user interface that walks you through 5-6 screens to adjust brightness, contrast, color levels, etc. Here’s a CNET article on the optimizer http://www.cnet.com.au/dvdpvr/dvdrecorders/0,239035839,240056302,00.htm. There are more advanced tools out there but this has worked really well for me – its free and it only takes 5-10 minutes.
Third, take a look at my posting from this morning, 1/1/08, above. These are the settings I’ve settled on AFTER going through the THX Optimizer and based on my own personal preferences for color/tonality, brightness, etc.
I honestly don’t think you’ll get more than this from BB or CC. Their technicians will likely use a similar tool but they won’t be as familiar with this particular TV. I have spent hours (my wife would say days) over the last three months fine-tuning settings and viewing various different reference material and i’m very pleased with my 46XBR4.
Best of luck! P.S. When I say “save” the $300 I really mean invest it in a Blu-Ray player instead ;-). Feel free to write back with questions.
I recently bought a Sony 46″ XBR4 and an Onkyo SD-TR705 A/V receiver. For $300, Best Buy says they will come out and tweek the picture and it will supposedly be far better than the standard settings. Has anyone had this service done? Is it worth the $300? Any feedback would be apprreciated.
re: Vinny’s request on 11/29
Here are the settings I use for my 46XBR4. Remember that the settings are stored by input so you’ll need to change these for each input source you have. BTW – If this is helpful, I have a Motorola digital cable box and a PS3 both connected to the TV via HDMI. I’ve kept my settings the same for both sources.
In the Picture settings:
Backlight = 4
Picture = 80
Brightness = 55
Color = 45
Hue = 0
Color Temp = Prefer Neutral but Warm 1 is nice also
Sharpness = 80
Noise Reduction = Off, although I had to turn this on while watching Planet Earth on Blu-Ray for some reason. I was getting bad flashing of light in a couple of scenes and turning this on High cured it. For everything else though I’ve left it off b/c I’ve noticed some ghosting in dark scenes with this on. I’d leave it off for most HD programming.
MPEG Noise Reduction = Off
DRC Mode = Off
DRC Pallette = Off
Under Advanced Settings; Gamma=Medium, Color Space=Standard, all others are Off
Under the Video Options Menu:
Motion Enhancer – High
Cinemotion – Auto 2, as I mentioned in my 10/5/07 posting Auto 1 did some funky things to the image.
Hope this is helpful for you. Happy New Year everyone!
Hi, after reading your comment in regards to plasma, I came to this conclusion.
Even though plasma have better red and black colour, they don’t produce the overall colours as accurately as the latest generation X series from Sony, especially the white.
So in my book lcd is still better. Because most of the time I watch broadcasted program rather than DVD.
I second JohnM8114, gaming and fear of image retention drove me to LCD. As I only watched DVDs, I settled on the bargain Sharp LC-32D40U (720p).
…then I bought a PS3, and am loving the hi-def gaming (50% of use) and blu-ray/upscaling (50% of use). I do not watch televised broadcasts.
My dilemma: is it worth the money in terms of improved experience to upgrade to the Sony KL-40XBR4? This would not be a budget buster, but I would like to justify this switch. Any snap judgments, HDGuru?
Hello,
THis is Pioneer Engineer, nice to seet you.
I’m very intresting â€ÂFPD Benchmark Software For Professionalâ€Â.
Could you send it for me
Let me first say thank you to all that write in, I have used your knowledge to help me in deciding on two sony xbr 4 (40in and 46) lcd. I just got the tv’s home and set up to io cable using a hdmi . Can anyone help me to adjust the proper settings? I like that 3d look that i get on some hd channels but not all. I have used some of the setting that people write in but feel that the ones i have used look muted i dont get that” fall out of the screen picture” I would appreciate any help because i am a beginer to this all. Also does anyone know the proper settings for the cable box? should i be receiving all 480, 720 and 1080 signals or just the 1080 setting? thanks again
Al McInnis, I am choosing between the same too sets. Since its been more than three months since your post, I assume that you have made your purchase by now. Which set did you pick and why?
Thanks for getting back to me.
ToLawyer
Toronto, Canada
Great analysis.
Any chance you will do an equivalent one for the Mitsubishi 46244? There are a fair number of reviews out there (uneven quality…) on Sony’s XBR and Samsung’s 71/81 but very few, to none, for Mitsubishi 244: any reason for that?
Mine went out 13 days after buying it.
Here’s the thing – even if the best plasma tvs put out a picture that looked like an IMAX movie under perfect conditions, that wouldn’t work for me because in my living room with 7 windows, I’d see my neighbor’s red honda accord in every shot. This is the major advantage for me personally in LCDs. If I had a dedicated home theater, I’d probably be looking at plasmas, but as such – LCD is the way to go. I think you would avoid some of the criticism you get by acknowledging the fact that LCD simply is a better choice for very common conditions. You don’t have to live “in a retail showroom or has set up an ultra-bright, high ambient light viewing environment that mimics a showroom” to appreciate having a non-reflective screen. You just have to be an average american with a TV set up in a living room with natural light.
Thanks for the review – sounds like it will be an awesome TV.
What are the main differences between XBR & non-XBR models of Sony? Appreciate your inputs.
Sony Bravia KDL-46W3000 while watching standard tv having problem with green tint. made many adjustments nothing seems to help. any suggestions?
Eric, with reference to your posting on Oct 5, can you please publish your settings so that we all can benefit from your hard work?
What is this nonsense about 50% resolution in Vivid and Standard mode, did it ever occur to you to try changing picture settings in those modes? How about turning OFF DRC? I have the TV and believe that is what made the difference between proper and proper deinterlacing…just turn DRC off for high-def channels and you should have all the lines resolved.
Also to those users that compained about the unnatural motion in movies…it has to do with the CineMotion feature which is in addition to the 120HZ processing. Leave the 120HZ in standard and Turn OFF CineMotion and that will keep the default 24 frame rate on movies and still give you the benefit of reducing motion blur.
CineMotion deals specificly with converting the frame rate which makes the movies seem unnatural.
Just read the full review and CNET.com and you will see the difference between a truly professional review and one made by HD Guru.
Thanks
Jose,
That problem is reported on Sony’s website for the 46XBR4 here’s the link:
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/news-item.pl?mdl=KDL46XBR4&news_id=194
There is a solution at the bottom of the screen.
I purchased the 46XBR4 recently from CC. I did not read that report first, would it have changed my mind, no because I haven’t had that problem, luckly. The picture quality is superior.
First, let me start by saying I understand some of your concepts but in regards to displaying 24fps and 3:2 pulldowns I’m lost.
I have a Sony 52″ xbr3 and a Sony Blu-ray S300. I’m trying to get a 24p signal. I’m using a Monster HDMI cable for the connection.
I’m not getting a picture but instead displays this message.
“Unsupported Signal – Check your device output”
Is my TV not 24p capable?
First, let me start by saying I understand some of your concepts but in regards to displaying 24fps and 3:2 pulldowns I’m lost.
I have a Sony 52″ xbr3 and a Sony Blu-ray S300. I’m trying to get a 24p signal. I’m using a Monster HDMI cable for the connection.
I’m not getting a picture but instead displays this message.
“Unsupported Signal – Check your device output”
Is my TV not 24p capable?